A12A is not the designation for the mid dizzy motors. A12A is an uncommon version of the mid dizzy A12's from the B310 which has bigger wrist pins and fatter conrods at the small end to suit the bigger pins, and the bores are also a touch larger which makes them something like 1237cc. Unless it has A12A stamped in the engine number area?

The oil cap just has a pair of magnetic squares/clamps sitting on it

Nearly every Japanese car has metric bolts and fittings. Mazda use imperial brake and clutch line fittings on some of their cars, like the B1800 ute I had. Massive mind f*** when I tried fitting a Datsun clutch master until I figured it out. Surely if it wasn't right you would have noticed as they would have been very difficult to tighten up.

Coupe bearings are supposedly different from the ute/sedan/wagon. A friend on Facebook discovered that when rebuilding the rear end in his convertible coupe.

And as for the idle control, I ditched that idea, I'll probably just run a solenoid or two off some ports on the manifold with some metering holes of different sizes on the open side and drill them to get the idle speeds needed.

I was looking at the microsquirt but it seemed very limited in what it could do. You use their Quadspark module to drive the COP's and other individual coil setups.

You need a magnetic pickup tool or retractable claw pickup tool and a torch. Shine the torch down the dizzy hole and you'll probably see the bolt you dropped sitting between the block and the cam. Then use your 'skill tester' skills with the pickup tool to retrieve the bolt.

Haven't done anything on it in 2 or 3 years.

Now has gilmer pulleys from Kemotorsport in Adelaide.

I bought a new pair of injectors from CAPA Performance which are from the supercharged V6 (L67?) VT commodore, correct cc's with a little headroom according to the online calculator I used. Can't remember if the spray pattern is correct though.

Got an SR CAS modified to take an A-series gear and fit the hole. But after all that got done I realised the shaft has helical grooves in it which keep the oil out of the top section of the sensor. Too much money and messing about to make a new shaft with grooves in it the correct direction for the direction of rotation of the A-series (opposite direction of the SR). Instead I'll gut an A-series dizzy and make a 4 tooth trigger wheel to fit inside with a CAS inside or outside, and make an adapter for the crank to bolt a trigger wheel and the gilmer pulley to.

Put one pair one side and the other pair on the other side. Won't hurt your brain that way haha Unless of course theyre staggered fitment

Can't just take the cap into Jegs or Autozone or whatever you guys have over there to see if they have anything on their shelves that's the same?

The standard A12 in my B120 used to run-on, changing the timing didn't have any effect, played with the idle cutoff solenoid which also didn't change anything. I changed to plugs with 7 heat range and they did the trick. Can't remember what the old ones were though.