When you say "relay" behind the headlight, do you mean the black plastic plug that fits onto the three prongs at the back of the headlamp? If so and the headlamp is a sealed beam unit (just a large globe with three prongs sticking out of it, not a halogen unit that has a seperate globe and lens), you will need to replace the complete sealed beam unit (or upgrade both with halogen replacements for a better headlight all round).

Normally you should only need to balance one carb body against the other and then balance shouldn't change regardless of jetting changes.
So to me it is all a jetting issue (guess you already knew that tho!). Backfiring or spitting under accel usually indicates leanness, a rich mix will normally feel "heavy" as it revs.
Just throwing it out there but are the throttle plates around the right way? Some have a groove on the edge that should pass across the progression holes as they crack open, I have seen them inserted backwards before..

EDIT: Wurzel has my carb book which gives basic starting points for weber/dellorto carbs but I can't see them being that different for a Solex, I mean you are still trying to put the same amount of fuel in per cylinder regardless of carb type? Anyway I don't have it on me so can't tell you what it would be for your motor sorry, maybe contact Wurzel?

Hey Chris,

take a look at this page, it has tuning stuff for Mikuni's as fitted to the Toyota 2TG etc. Hopefully some good stuff for you there..

Toyota Solex tuning info

The only restriction to radiator cap pressure is what pressure your system will hold. Too much pressure you will spring a leak!

The point of a radiator cap to raise pressure is to raise the boiling point of the coolant. As the prssure rises so does the boiling point, in this way you get a few extra degrees of temp before boiling the coolant.

From wikipedia:

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So you can see low pressure equals low boiling point.

Thanks, not in any hurry at all.

Just looking to have one to play with sometime.

Not cheap but O'Briens told me they still had them new for about $500 fitted.

If anyone has a (really) cheap or free L series (4 cyl) oil pump they can send my way please let me know.
Condition not important as I only want it to pull apart to measure up etc., to make a high volume A series oil pump, rather than do it to a new unit.

Did you back off the handbrake before adjusting the rears? If you didn't then it will be holding the shoes against the drums, making it seem they are adjusted OK but the rear cylinders will not be touching them and will need to be pumped up.

If the pedal is hard (and doesn't slowly sink to the floor) once pumped up, then hydraulic wise it sounds OK and it is probably an adjustment issue.

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Dunno on pressure plate, anyway to identify them?

I did say "not as streetable"

Everything is streetable..

I had a button clutch in my AWD bluebird with a CA18 and all of the clunkiness of the AWD drivetrain, very definately street driven!