87A is the N/C contact. You actually have a SPDT (single pole double throw relay there. It means that with no power to the coil +ve, current will pass through from the battery to whatever you have connected to 87A, when you turn the key "on" and get power at the +ve, the relay will switch and put power to 87 instead.

In your situation you don't need to connect anything to 87A, just make sure it is insulated from any accidental earth contact as it will have 12V there whenever the key isn't in the "on" position.

Normally the grip is determined by the friction material and pressure plate clamping force. High friction material doesn't need as much surface area.
It also lessens the inertia by having less material (i.e. mass) at the larger radius.
The center is solid to stop any failure of the sprung center (as in a normal street clutch) which means it isn't as streetable due to shudder etc on take up but won't rip the center out due to failure of the springs.

ITEM:
15" TRX rims with Datsun centers, have 2 x 195/50 and 2 x 185/55 fitted

CONDITION:
Rims in good nick, minimal gutter rash, tyres reasonable tread, prob need replacing though as don't hold pressure that well. Only have a handful of wheel nuts..


REASON FOR SELLING:
15" not my thing and $$ is

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS:
$100

EXTRA INFO:
nope

LOCATION:
Melbourne eastern suburbs

CONTACT:
Dean 0407 118 698, PM etc..

PICTURES:

Hey guys,

am looking for the LHS mudflaps as am missing the rear one and the front is cracked. Mainly looking for the rear. Need to have the Datsun logos as pictured.

Front



Rear



I know a lot of these get removed and thrown away so please let me know if you have any you want to get rid of.

ITEM:
Four puck button clutch and std 4 speed gearbox

CONDITION:
Clutch plate unused, clutch cover and gearbox used

REASON FOR SELLING:
no need for them, need for $$

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS:
$50 + freight

EXTRA INFO:
nope

LOCATION:
Melbourne eastern burbs

CONTACT:
Me (Dean) 0407 118 698, PM, whatever

PICTURES:
Clutch (see below), gearbox you know what they look like..

Quote:

This can be from anything that gets voltage when the key is turned to "ON", because it is running through a relay coil it will draw next to nothing in the way of current. Get a multi meter (or test light is also safe with these old cars, not so with fuel injected) and start poking around to find a source that goes live (+12V) when the key is turned to on only.

I disagree regarding the relay. Yes it will work without but you are now putting all the extra current of the pump through an ignition switch that wasn't originally designed for it. It can burn out your ignition switch and possibly burn out the pump through under voltage.

When adding any extra electrical equipment (pumps, spotlights, halogen headlamps, etc.) to these old cars you should always use a relay to protect and ensure the correct operation of them.

Where does it sound like it's coming from? If front wheel balance you will feel it in the front wheels as it will vibrate the steering.
Otherwise rear wheel balance, rear wheel bearings, driveshaft UJ's, diff pinion bearing, even possibly gearbox output shaft bearing.

I take it is road speed related not engine rev related?

Hey Charlie,

got a A14 short block 76mm bore and a bare block 77mm bore (do have crank and rods but do have someone interested in the crank and the rods have been played with) here in Melb.

He he, I've seen something similar for the wipers. String to pull them across the windscreen and a bungy to return them..