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I was always told not to use grease as it doesn't break down in the oil once running, we always used Vaseline to pack oil pumps for priming?

Also make sure the pick up isn't pressing against the bottom of the sump, found that out after the bash plate didn't quite do the job it was sposed to and the sump was made a little shallower than standard..

Anyway, glad to hear it's up and running..

Bandit,

Was this a complete gear unit you bought or was it a new gear set?

Reason I ask is that on Peter Zekert's (he is a member here but unsure of his forum name) website he mentions the following:

"Core 5-speed close ratio 56A transmissions, with broken gears, for use in areas where aftermarket gear sets are readily available (Spain, Portugal) from $500 usd"

Do you know anything about these gear sets? Availability? Price?
Is this what your gearbox was made from?

Once bled on the bench, you can also bleed it from the pipes direct at the M/C when installed (watch the paint!), just crack the pipe nuts. Main thing to make sure is that the resivoir is always full.
I have bled some really cr@ppy british heaps (land rovers usually!) after cylinder replacements by just cracking the bleeders and letting it bleed through with gravity, making sure the resivoir is always full. Once it has flushed through with new fluid (and no more air bubbles), you pressure bleed them like normal.

Chris,

how does the fuel flow work on those carbs? Does each carb have it's own float/needle and seat? Or is there only the one needle and seat at the inlet and then each carb bowl is filled from the overflow of the previous (or by an internal passage?)? My bike is injected (and there are only three TB's) so no help there!

You should be able to check if the front/rear level of the carbs is the issue by simply jacking the rear of the car until the carbs are level.

Just thinking about this boys, it's not the front to rear lean the carbs are on is it? In a bike they would sit level left to right i.e. along the length of the carbs. But in the datto they will be tilted down from front to rear (or left to right idf they were still on the bike?).

The lack of fuel to the front carbs isn't to do with the restrictor you inserted in the line to limit pressure (and flow) is it?

You should not have a problem with flow overcoming the needle and seats, it is purely pressure that will affect them.

Where is the fuel line connected to? The rearmost carb? How does it then get fuel to the remaining carbs, via an internal rail? If it is a rail I would think that the first two carbs are taking the bulk of the fuel and there isn't enough fuel left to keep the front carbs supplied?

A14 blocks still available, custom interior panels, rear plastics etc..

I experienced lean running in top after a sustained run through the gears in my old rally sedan. It was running a Facet lift style pump with 3/8" piping from pump to carbs. Ended up pulling the tank and getting a 3/8" outlet welded in, also found bigger fittings for the pump and boring them out as large as possible, this fixed it up.
If you are going to the effort of running a bigger line, go that little bit more and fix the lot up to make it optimal.

Both manifolds, head etc sold pending confirmation of shipping costs and deposit.

How about some sort of girdle across the top of the pedestals as well? Tying them together would help prevent flexing and stress on single bolt threads?

Could also include the collars to replace the springs into the girdle?