What kind of budget would you be looking at?

Here is a link to the thread when I bought it from Benny, it's got all the photo and info as well. If anyone wants specific photos I will take them and post them but it's currently rapped and taped up in bubble rap and I would prefer to leave it as is. I opened it and checked it when Benny sent it to me and then I rapped it taped it up and stuck it on the shelf where it still sits.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/v ... =ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

I am selling an A14 motor which is complete with alternator,dizzy manifolds and carb, and clutch. It has An H75 head on it and has been stored in my garage since I bought it. It will come with the head I bought from Benny, the H89 with the works.
I have copied this info from when I bought it because all its done is sit on the shelf in my office, and I have not had a chance to touch it as things have changed.

Ports - Inlet 38mm tall x 30mm wide
- Exhaust 29.2mm tall x 27.4mm wide

The ports have had extensive work around the short radius and the area around the back of the valve.

Valves - Inlet 40mm head 8mm stem stainless
- Exhaust 33mm head 8mm stem stainless

Head has been angle milled in order to stand the valves a little more upright. This helps with piston to valve clearance when you have high lift cam and large diameter valve heads. Helps also with avoiding deep flycuts in the piston crown.

Because the head has been angled milled the thickness differs from the port side compared to the spark plug side of the head. Thickness dimensions are:

74mm port side.
68.5 spark plug side.
~ 71mm in the middle.

In addition the push rod holes have been enlarged to account for the angle, The head bolt holes have also been milled square to the head gasket face, so that the head bolts clamp square to the block.

Comes with double valve springs and custom spring retainers and has new manifold studs fitted. 1 Valve guide will need to be replaced due to what looks like to be a crack near the cir-clip where the guide is pressed into the head.


Located Mitcham Vic

I have the body mouldings off a coupe that run along the sill from wheel to wheel. These have been floating around the garage for a couple of years and if I don't get rid of them they will just get broken and end up in the bin.

One is in very good condition and the other has three spots where it has been knocked but is still quite respectable, they also have their clips.

Both my cars are L-series. I recommend giving them a call and having a chat they are really good at what they do.

I am looking for a cheap steering wheel and boss kit for my coupe. I need something that will pass a road worthy nothing more. Not really fussed by appearance as I will be replaced more after cheap.

LPG injection sounds good but will have to wait unfortunately. Does it operate in the same way as fuel?
I changed the camshaft in my sedan today with interesting result. I installed the 74 wade cam and its not a huge difference from what was in there, the car idles rough like the last cam and when driving the power comes on earlier and pulls longer. The power doesn't just drop off at 5000rpm. I will be interested to try out the wade 72 which I will try and get in this week just to see how it goes with the LPG.

Thanks for he link Dennis.

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I was wondering if someone could tell me a bit about camshaft basics. I have just picked up today 2 camshafts I have had reground by wade to try out in my sedan as the unknown cam I have in it drops off power at about 5500-6000rpm, has great torque and really pulls from 4000rpm but just not for that long. this is what has prompted the thought and I haven't found anything yet that puts it simply for the novice.

All the cams that have high durations seem to have a power range high in the rev range, What do you need in a cam to produce torque?