Having just rebuilt a Hitachi I came across something else to check carefully when doing an overhaul on these Carburettors, Somebody had at some point replaced the throttle housing section and I could not figure out why it ran like crap up to 2000 RPM.

That is until I pulled it apart properly, It was a used Junk yard special just a quick clean with carb cleaner as all the shafts etc were good, that was the first mistake should have gutted it totally first time.
Well it seems you can interchange many Lower throttle housing sections to sort out a worn throttle shaft scenario, But just make sure the holes to feed the progression circuit between the base and the main carb body actually line up with each other these did not so into the spares junk pile and I found a Subaru L series wagon base that fitted and did line up.

Hint the phenolic plastic like spacer between the sections is a good gauge as to whether they are matched properly.

Hitachi carburettors have been fitted to various Mazdas, Nissans,and even some Hondas so beware that with many of these carburettors being quite old there is every chance somebody has been there before and caused a problem not found on a stock factory spec carb.

Back in the mid 1920's we have a gutsy effort at replacing a Wheel mid air by a Woman, with a twist on another Aircraft so not only did she have to "Wing Walk" but also swap planes mid air and then replace the fallen off wheel with a spare she carried strapped on her back.

Like Wow this footage whilst old and somewhat grainy would give an OH@S department a collective heart attack these days.
http://www.flixxy.com/mid-air-airplane-repair.htm

The only bolt in adapters I have ever seen were only ever for Recaro seats, Other than that fabricate is the only option.

Usually best done by utilising the original seat rails fitted to the original mounts in the car and then either Welding mounting sections for the new seat or in some instances bolting on a fabricated adaptor to suit to the factory rails, Do not be concerned that adding more metal to the original rails will end up making the seat too high, More often than not they actually need to be raised higher anyway.

If bolting on metal adaptors that can often be just flat bar at least 4mm thick for strength then use high tensile cap screws as they need to fit inside part of the original factory seat rail to clear the sliding section and allow front rear adjustment by sliding the seat rails.
These Cap screw or Unbrako allen head type bolts are located central in the old seat rail so the fore aft adjustment works as intended, Often a good idea to test run for clearance before bolting in just to be sure it works Ok, Sometimes you have to linish a little bit off the top of those bolts or source Dome headed cap screws for clearance reasons.

Unbrakos are used as High Tensile are required because the seat is only held in place by four bolts and a point few think of if you spin the car out and go backwards off the road into something the only thing holding the seat and therefor you in place are those four 8mm shank sized bolts.

Seat Belts only work when you run into something front first if you are moving backwards when you hit something the seat belt does nothing and in a 1200 coupe or sedan those bolts become vital, That is why all late model roll cages now have a bar behind the seats that the seat is attached to, Of course when talking Ute's the cabin size means the seat moving backwards and spitting you into a Mixmaster inside the car is not a problem there is just no room for the seat to move backwards and break bolts.

Dogleg L series Box is not a type 60 but a type 63.

Remember Datsun gearboxes are rated and described as type 56 means 56mm between the centreline of the gearbox shafts so a type 60 means 60 mm between shaft centreline and obviously a type 63 is 63mm and on we go to type 71 ect.

When it comes to type A or type B gearboxes the earlier type A boxes use Porsche type servo syncro's and the Type B use Borg Warner style Brass cone syncro cones.

Not a hard and fast rule though for second hand gearboxes and this is why.
I have converted a number of gearboxes over the years from Servo type Syncros to warner type Syncros by pressing the matching cone sections off the gears and swapping them over and I know I am not the only person to have done that type of Modification especially to Rally Boxes for more robust effective syncro operation.

No Cams always used FIA Homologation papers for Imported vehicles to acertain Legality and the FS5C56A was Homologated as standard equipment in the GX Models so it was always Legal as long as the Homologation was for Group One not Group Two which it was.
Group two would have meant running dual sidedraught PHH Solex 40mm's and that would not have been so good for Bathurst what with Fuel consumption also an Important part of the Race.

Do not forget the Racing back then was known as "Improved Production" which meant that a GMH Holdel XU1 which came stock with triple sidedraught Stromberg CD 1.75" Carbs was allowed to run Triple Weber 45 DCOE carburettor's with each carburettor running only one Barell with the Jets Soldered closed on the other Barell hanging out in thin Air.That way they met the rules of the same number of Air Inlets Carburetion wise.

Just make sure the block you use you measure the height to make sure somebody has not already decked it as that could throw the maths out on what you need.

Sorry guys but someone does have coupe front quarter vent rubbers LH and RH, Try these guys.
http://www.spectrumrubber.com.au/imag ... trum_Rubber_Catalogue.pdf

http://www.spectrumrubber.com.au/
Just double click on the png image attached to open in a new window so you can read it clearly

Attach file:

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  1200 coupe front quarter vent rubbers.PNG (150.59 KB)

No not Webers, Japanese Mikuni Solex's, Early Enkei Compe 8 rims without the extra ridges on the spokes but the car is in Japan it says Sunny on the rear quarter panel and likely one of the Northern Islands that salt the roads going on the rust, Never the less what a waste.

You may want to check out these Guys Precision just remember that on the 1200 page there is an arrow at the bottom to flick through all six pages just on the B110 early 1200 stuff.

Oh they also list every other model you are likely to come across and have prices on their site, Your Local spares guys or even mechanic could also source bits through them,Decent range and they give dimensions for some parts on the site and even torque settings etc, Though I would always confirm that sort of stuff just in case.
the link is page 6 so just go back to look at the rest or go to the Home page these guys do all sorts of goodies as well as spares for engines
http://www.precisionintl.com/Engine.a ... D=1292&EID=4760699&Page=6

Home Page.
http://www.precisionintl.com/Default.aspx

Yes it is interesting fuel consumption on carburetors, My Stanza rally car (Violet or New 510 in the US and elsewhere) was pretty much Full group two factory car with many "Works" components Engine wise Std capacity Japanese L20 B block 11.3 CR either Early 219 casting Big Port SSS head ,Usual 44 mm inlets but 36 mm exhausts Factory group 2 cam 76 Degree 48 mm Webers 40 mm Chokes 4.875 Final Drive on 195/70 14 Dunlops SP 52 R E compound and on the few occasions I actually drove it to an event instead of Tilt Tray it averaged 36 MPG around 75~80 MPH.

I also had a factory FIA Cylinder head group 2 Legal FIA spec and that made even more torque and got another 3 MPG on transport stages, However in Competitive Stages it averaged 12 MPG in Dry conditions and got down to between 5~6 MPG in wet conditions.

Tom in fact the best power from Bike Carburetors I ever saw was replacing the Japanese Carburetors on Kawasaki's with smoothbore Mk 2 Amal carburetors, those babies really make good power when you dial them in.
They are round Brass plated smooth bore type carburetors not flat slide style but they really mix the fuel well and hence make good clean smooth power, they Jet up really well.

The Big trick in getting them to work was Cam and Ignition dialed in before fine tuning the Carburetors and that applies to anything, But even some of the best in the game do not get cam timing where it should be, My car with a 76 Degree cam pulled from a good 500 RPM earlier than other examples of similar spec engines.

It was actually more fuel efficient than My Stanza Coupe , Fuel Injected L20 B ex Howard Marsden and George Fury so having been the personal car of the Nissan and ex Ford Motorsport Manager in Australia (Howard) and then taken on Hand by George the Factory Rally and Bathurst Driver for Nissan it was nicely set up, But the Rally car was more economical because it was more efficient.