Datsun 180B or 610 in different markets also bolts in to a 120Y B210, later Nissan MR 30 series Skylines used the stumpy gearbox at least in Australia but probably elsewhere also.

There is also this option for Highly modded carburetted engines,At one point in the past Haltech had an Igntion only system called the IG4 these days Ignition only systems are few and far between but important for highly modified carburetted engines,This is one of the best and made in Sydney.

http://www.emsefi.com/emsefi/index.ph ... citor-discharge-ignitions

Better option than what some do which is use only the ignition side of an aftermarket Engine Fuel and Ignition Management system.

Everyone needs to be aware of this Company as they cater to just about all needs in Engine and Gearbox mounts as well as Cooling system hoses and other stuff as well.
Support Local Jobs and those who supply bits for our older cars.


http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/products/automotive/aftermarket/

We have a nice option in Sydney at least of owning your own Argon or Argoshield gas Cylinders,So no more rent to pay.
Up front cost is about $330.00 for a D size and about $460.00 for an E size,All sizes are available and for fabrication shops that use a fair ammount of Gas there is free delivery from Mona vale.

http://speedgas.com.au/argon.html

As for a Welder why not consider a 170 Amp Cigweld Inverter multi process machine being lighter is always a bonus,Parts availability and Service Locally beats Chinese made stuff.
Then there is the advantage of being a Mig welder for light Aluminium welding ( No Tig I know but usefull) A DC stick welding option and a DC Tig also in the one Machine makes a Good Choice they also do bigger than 170 Amps but these can be had for about a Grand or so so are good value for home use.

Unimig also have similar Inverter multi process machines,I would not buy a Conventional Mig these days unless a quality second hand machine for a good price such as a Miller,Lincoln,Cig,Esab,Unimig or WIA brand.
And of them the Esab is best avoided as service and parts are becoming difficult as the company seems to concerntrate on Plasma cutters these days.

Personal experience owning Migs from CIG,Lincoln and Miller and having used the others as well as Kempi and Lincoln Tigs also owned and soon to add a Gigweld Tig to the Mix.

Castor rods are from the Lower Control arm forward to the mounts on the Body,Steering arms bolt to the bottom of the struts,Between the steering arms and the drag link are the outer steering rods with screw on or in steering joints both inner and outer.

It appears your thread Title is wrong or your understanding of which part is what is somewhat confused,Hope this helps.

Boosters are only a hassle if you did not do it right first time even Works escorts ran two boosters in the BDG and BDA models,I have been involved in building them back in the Day but they are much more common now in Australia,Works Nissan PB210,710 and Stanza all ran them.
I have owned an Ex works 210,and run a works spec Stanza back in the 80's so I do know what I am talking about and modified many 120Y's and 1200's over the years done properly it is a good upgrade.
But all must be aware you do not just go down to a wreckers and expect to find something that does not require an overhaul on cars over thirty years old before you fit it to your car.

Gearbox is easy been there done that a RWD converted 3SGTE into a KE70,Crank trigger waste spark ignition,Custom inlet manifold similar to a four into one extractor but adapted for the inlet side and sized appropriatly.

Gearbox Toyota Misfire four Corona used a bellhousing that bolts up then add a 2 litre celica or Supra box to the mix.
Missfire four was that model they fitted the Holden Red motor variant the XU 2/3 engine to.

Sydney Toyota car club president of some years back had the car.

Also fitted into 1200's Z18 Turbo Marrone one in Fast Fours years back for a mate Wayne Selby,Massive job Bluebird turbo firewall and transmission tunnel,Full VDO custom dash Bluebird rear disks 240K fronts on Stanza Armstrong struts (The Grey ones for Aussie Stanzas used a 240 K size stub axle much stronger than the jap stanza struts.

Clutch master cylinder used a Formula Ford type mounted on top of the Steering column support under the dash with a remote reservoir in the engine bay on the firewall,This allowed room for a Sunny B310 Booster to be fitted.

Koni rear shocks for a Volkswagon passat station wagon fitted perfectly at the rear to upgrade the back dampers.

Also fitted a 4AGE with custom Extractors self made and Sand Bent to both a 1200 Ute and a KE30 Corrola Coupe,these are a good engine in a 1200.

CA18 as well to a 1200 but make sure even if you plan on using it normally aspirated base it on the Turbo CA18 as it is a much stronger bottom end,Hooking up the Tacho is a pain to these Coil on Plug Engines and something to be very carefull about,Best to adapt all the CA system to the car rather than just try to wire it into 1200 wiring harness.
When measuring for a tacho hookup I found the Ignition Module for the CA engines has 230 Volts and 10 Amps on the low tension side of the ignition circuit,That is the same s playing with a 240 Volt powerpoint in your home,Beware!!!.

If you want it to stop then do a search on fitting a small Jap 120y type vaccum Booster as that will solve the hard pedal effort you are probably feeling,Simple basic old school step one for a 1200,Surprised nobody else pointed that out first.

As for the Color that is a bonus few are aware of,Certain colors such as Green back in the Day had a much higher lead content in the paint which allowed much better sealing to occur against the elements.

Most cars back then were painted in Acrylic paint which requires constant waxing or a weatherproof storage to stop moisture getting through the paint causing rust.

Greens some darker Blues and some Orange paints used a much higher percentage of Lead in the paint and the Lead allowed those colors to seal against moisture much better so cars with certain colors are much more likely to be found with no or minimal rust simply because of the paint color and it's lead content being much higher than other colors.

People I know on other forums are getting good results but as with paint good preparation gains a good finish.
That has been evident from others results.

Otherwise they do as they advertise but with a Nickel Silver rather than Gold Cad Plating finish as Cad Plating has fallen foul of the Eco Nazi's.

Attitude is everything as some have pointed out,Modifying dashes is generally OK as long as the padded section remains basically stock as this is a safety standard and they reinforce that even more so than simple compliance stuff,\.
Early vehicles only had to comply with standards applicable at the time so Webers on a 1200 are OK,But if you drop in a CA18 then you have to comply to Later Standards applicable to the Engine Year,That is a trap many are not aware of.

Therefore do your research carefully and modify sensible and try to find the increasingly scarce engineer that will sign off on mods so you are covered,An earlier car means less hassles as it has less rules to comply with.

Basic roadworthiness such as minimum height and legal tyres no sharp bits sticking out etc will save you much grief down the track but you can still have a decent nice ride.

Just remember no cars that belong in a Transformeres movie.