Can't believe nobody has jumped on these as they are the pick of the bolt in struts for 1200's.
Jap stanza struts run a smaller stub axle than these Australian spec ones with girlock calipers made by Armstrong.
They run the larger 240K sized stub axle which means they are much more open to brake and hub upgrades than the Jap struts and have the advantage of using lighter strut housings than the 240 K or Skyline and Zed gear.
They also do not have steering geometry issues like the later Bluebird or 180 SX struts with their negative scrub offset designs.

Maybe if your sig had a location then people could recomend somewhere to source whatever you need,but there is no point saying go see so and so at Botany if you are in Washington state or Perth.
I do know someone who sells them but it is in Kirrawee in Sydney.

So you have a torque wrench and think you can build a motor,well luckily an A series is rather tough
But there is a lot more to building a good reliable engine that will make power and keep making it and you will not find most of the relevant information in a book or online,yes you can assemble an engine and it will work.
A engine builder who knows his stuff and knows the engine will always give you a far superior result,more so than even a decent mechanic,but in truth it takes people in the trade at least 15 years to become half decent as it takes that long to experience most of the little tricks and traps inherent in making good reliable power from any engine.
As to the statement about balance ex factory and no need for machining etc that may be valid for some low mileage engine but each engine encountered is different has had a different service history and the owner expects unique attributes for his engine,this totally negates such a blanket statement.
With close on 40 years of building Race Rally drag and MX,Roadracing and Quad bike engines real experience tells me many do not know and worse think they do.
Just finished a customers Engine rebuild,he had his mechanic rebuild a yamaha banshee quad with a stroker crank and cheetah cub top end.
Cost was comparable to buying decent parts but they got Chinese crap off an Ebay seller and it lasted about 5 hours then went bang,machine work was a joke had to throw the crankcases and new crank in the bin,at least his cylinders were saleable.
He now has a 96 HP 421cc reliable engine at a similar cost to what he first spent plus $600.00 labour
But he wasted over $5,000 dollars doing the job twice because he thought he knew enough to do it himself.
Bottom line every Engine has it's little secrets and most will never know them, as it has cost those who do know much time and effort not to mention money to find out they understandably wish to be recompensed for their knowledge.
This is why you use a good mechanic or engine builder,and there are many out there who are not good also.
Listen to those who have real experience and be guided by them and know when to call in the experts and you will both save money and get a better result in the end and that is what counts.
PS a 130~150 HP turbo will mean upgrading other parts of the driveline or you will be on a first name basis with every tow truch driver in a 500 Km radius from home.

Yeah the Borg Warner is better than a "Phantom Grip" but I personally don't call them a limited slip but they are better than nothing,but compared to a proper Nismo,Kaaz etc no comparison.

Definately go for the later twin cam motors,my experience with E series motors is they are fine until they get hot then you throw the head away.
Basically if they have been cooked all E series heads crack in the exhaust ports,so rule of thumb with these engines is never buy a "Reco" head off a wrecker always go to a pick and pull and find the dirtiest well used one you see as it was obviously still running when they pranged the car.
This way you have a much better chance of getting a good one or like I said go for a GA 16 TC motor or stick with a bullet proof A series.

If you want the ultimate cleaning method for carburettors it is ultrasonic cleaning with a mild degreasing agent diluted with water.
Ebay these days list a variety of stainless ultrasonic baths in various litre capacities up to about 6 litres.
To go beyond this is commercial equipment costing thousands of dollars.
I have succesfully cleaned plenty of bike carbs this way and it is brilliant bringing them up like new and most importantly it will clean inside all the small passages in the carb,the only other way to do this is to drill out the passages and replug them after with lead shot from a gun supply shop.
This will duplicate the OE manufacturing method and give the results you need.
A series carbs have always been an issue with their small passages in the idle circuits,no doubt the emmission spec Dellorto's are the same in this regard,unless the passages in the carb body are clean no ammount of jetting changes will make it work well.
Remember unless all the inside parts are clean then the outside of the carbs is irrelevant.

If you actually want this to work use no bigger than 45mm id for road use and 52mm id for track use,depending on header configuration for road an interference 4>2>1 style is best or a 4>1 for circuit track use.
2.25(Two and a quarter Inch) will work on an $8,000 Dollar full race engine otherwise it will go backwards,2 inch (52mm) works for a 2 litre rally car and makes strong power to 8,000 RPM for something like a Ford or Toyota or Datsun L series 2 valve motor,4 valve engines can use bigger sucessfully as I have built many of them and made full exhaust systems and headers all sand bent so perfect bends better than mandrel bends,believe me an A15 will not use over 52mm effectively and will lose torque and throttle response and end up Slow but noisy without a good note to it.
This advise comes from someone who has actually made and tested these things and has a Dyno at work so I actually can measure whether things actually do work rather than guessing and then giving advise even if carefully considered.
Unfortunately many these days go more for "Bling" over substance canon exhaust systems being a good case in point,almost invariably these make the car much slower,but the noise output makes people driving them think it is quick,plus nobody wants to admit they screwed up and wasted their money.

In australia a 160J SSS was a Nissan Stanza,we did have quite a few SSS badged models here,for us guys with a Rallying background the real 160J SSS was actually a Violet 710 Coupe very rare out here I know of about four,almost as rare were the Stanza Coupe.
Australia actually had 200 Stanza coupes sold here that were supposed to go to South Africa but were unloaded here by mistake,I was lucky enough to own one that wasn't from that batch but came via George Fury and Howard Marsden,Works Driver and Team Manager respectively Genuine Fuel Injected 1979 Coupe with a factory supplied 2 litre so I know exactly what you are looking for.
In Australia the SSS Stanza's were all 4 doors badge wise,NZ got some 160J models though.

Killrust paint is OK should work,best ever paint has always been VHT in Spray cans,paint on a warm day or carefully heat the cans till warm in hot water for a much better spray pattern and smoother coverage,light coats to build up color and practise and a heavier coat to get a smooth gloss finish coat.

THink thats out,there check out what they do to trucks over there more lights than a dozen Electra Glides at Daytona and a restyle that looks like a Shinto Temple coming down the road.