Beautiful work there someone should be proud of what they have achieved, and it shows that done right one does not have to go the modern way and bling something up to really make it look great.

Dont forget that the Peter Wherret Sigma Turbo cars were local modifications with a weber that they specifically made for turbo applications in a twin downdraught format just like the ones everyone fits to 1200's.

We also had Mazda MX5's made in Australia only with a Turbo conversion but they just nicked all the bits of the Turbo GTX Model so it came with a Warranty because it was effectively a Factory option using Factory parts and that engine spec was used locally in the later Ford TX3 model Laser second gen models.

Nothing is impossible just have to research the viability cost and engineering wise but you do end up with something unique and if legal it adds considerably to it's value for resale.

Interesting Cars, Where I live one of my neighbours worked for Leyland Australia and he brought home some interesting Cars Leyland Force 7V (P76 Coupe) but most interesting was a six cylinder Marina with tripple webers, Back then I owned an Torana XU1 (Damn I wish I still had that considering what they are worth now) anyhow that Marina was faster than my LJ XU1, they also had fitted custom double A Arm front suspension instead of the Macpherson struts, Well he did work in their Special vehicles Engineering Department where they did the testing for models to be released in Australia.

That particular car was very quick and it handled very well also so it proves any car company can make really good cars if they want to till the bean counters and production engineers get involved.

Toyota Corolla Levin TE27 Factory flares have been used in the past also as seen in this link great looking set of flares.
https://www.google.com.au/search?newwi ... lla-sr5.htm%3B4217%3B1889

Brindabella Motorsport club, Plenty of Datsun tragics there and a visit to their site BMSC will uncover whats going on to check out.

http://www.bmsc.com.au/
seems they have a tech night comeing up amongst other points of interest, entry is a gold coin donation.

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There are Turbines then there is the Howmet.

Easy to do go and buy a Dremel kit and some metal polish and do it yourself much cheaper than you would have been quoted and you end up with a useful tool as well into the bargain.

Bunnings if you are in Australia seem to have all the Dremel stuff as well as most other bigger tool suppliers including the buffing bits needed as you will need small buffing pads such as Dremel supply in their kits.

Repair section for inside the engine bay you make yourself, It's not that hard but I noticed as well there are signs of rust under the ridge as well.

Rust is like an Iceberg you see 10% and find the rest when you go to do the repair, But seriously fixing that is not that difficult just make sure to join fresh metal well past the existing rust and treat afterwards to prevent further rusting with Cold gal and Etch primer.

It will pay to remove any Seam sealerand check for rust in those areas as well, The seam sealer is like a rubbery substance wiped over wher two or more panels join and overlap it is designed to keep moisture out and stop rust.
When it gets old it shrinks and cracks letting moisture in to form more rust so scraping it out cleaning up and treating any rust found and applying fresh seam sealer will help stop more rust.

Seam sealer is easy to apply just get some rubber gloves and wipe in on and then clean off any excess to get a neat job.

the cast sections near the carbs are usually drilled to accomodate mounts for the throttle shaft linkages using a rod end, I would drill some small holes near the cylinder head face section and then link together with 3mm id rubber vacuum hose and take of from there whatever you need.

Using a single point for Brake vacuum is not as good as using two points of vacuum supply better feel with less pulsing at lower rpm.

Yes you manifold has four runners going each to an individual cylinder, I take it you are using a Redline Australian made twin side draught manifold or is it a Japanese one like Tomei?

Mikuni Solex side draughts mount solid with a phenolic (Bakelite like plastic) heat proofing spacer, Webers or dellorto Carburettors like a soft mount though the best of these were fitted standard to the datsun 2000 Roadster with the 150 HP engine option with twin 44mm Mikuni Solex sidedraught carburettors.
They may still be able to be found if you look here where they make good replacement parts.

http://www.fairladyparts.com/page28.html

Hint with Nissan Motorsport cams the checking clearance seems to be 20 thou, I arrived at that by changing clearances till I got the correct duration and then set the cam taking special care to make sure the Inlet valve closing point was correct as that has the most effect.

Closing point affects effective compression ratio and hence torque and overall performance it is by far the most important timing point in any engine, Some people use a simple but foolish method of setting cams with equal lift on number four cylinder do not do it that way as it will result in less power and a drop in torque, I did an L series that had been set up that way with a works 76 degree cam and after dialing it in to correct factory timing specs it came on the cam almost 700 RPM earlier than it did set up incorrectly, So it really is worth the effort to do correctly.