Extreme applications for this alloy are corrosive environments such as salt water or very cold temperatures as its used mainly in cryogenic situations.

It melts at 570 but after some research it corrodes rapidly at temperatures above 65...

You mean higher Magnesium content retrorally?

5083 has around 5.0% Mg but only 0.1% Cu.

It pretty much only consists of Al and Mg (plus minute amounts of impurities).

Now 5083 is not the best alloy for this job (inlets)...hate to say it.

It is the strongest non heat treatable alloy but is not recomended in applications exceeding 65*C. However, just for reference - if you were to weld it 5183 is the best filler alloy.

Oh cool you made some allowances - I thought it was kind of based on everyone staying with their EOI (come to think of it that is a bit ambitious lol).

I cant wait for my flanges - so eager to start tigging up turbo and inlet manifolds!

BTW, what were you planning on doing with your flanges Chris?

Trial and error to get right and the gain you'd get over a locked one would be worthless to the time you put into getting it to that point.

That's why I've locked mine just then :D - done away with the springs, set it to the full advance position and tacked the posts in 2 places with the MIG. Also used High temp/strength/viscosity (Thick green) retaining compound loctite on the weight pivots and the shaft that the rotor spins on for advance. So yeah, shes locked alright.

Also mocked up the dissy in the engine at around 30 degrees advance and lined up the rotor tips to the reluctor (and unbolted the advance lever) and marked a new hole on the advance arm. Drilled a clearance hole and bolted the advance plate in a new spot - this is because if you put lots (30 degrees) advance on the dissy and the rotor is in the fully advanced state that I welded it in you will notice that when the dissy fires the rotor is in between 2 dissy cap pins (not lined up to a paticular one) so what I did with re orientating the advance plate makes the rotor line up with the correct pin when the dissy fires.

So tomorrow I'll set static timing, idle speed and idle mixture and keep advancing the dizzy till I get pinging and back it off to a safe level (on road test that is) then I can check with a timing light what the engine pings at for reference.

Oh yeah, I busted my throttle cable today so on the way back I had it coming out the bonnet to the passenger side and my mate drove while I used pliers out the window to pull the throttle cable - MAN that was so funny/stupid/dodgey; good times.

So...

Who is running a locked distributor?

I was just wondering as I am trying to optimize my advance curve but realized I could spend all this time to have it *perfect* where as I could just lock it in a matter of minutes and have it work nearly as good lol.

In my case I'm not running vacuum advance and the car idles best with 30 deg. advance but If I leave it at 30 for best idle it pings under load.

So locking it at 30 would solve this. Thoughts? Opinions?

Also, I could leave static timing at 10 degrees and connect vac. advance to the manifold - then I get lots of advance for good idle and once opened up the throttle it will drop and then max out at around 30 degrees. Is this better than just locking at 30 degrees?

Personally, I like the no bullshit approach of locking it at my max safe amount of timing (about 35 degrees). I get steadier timing with no chances of it failing (broken spring, throwing a weight) and the motor wants 30 at idle and 30 past 2500 rpm so just cut the crap and leave it at 30 all the time - its not like Ill miss out on performance between idle and 3000 tpm if I have the timing locked at 30 degrees.

Not everyone seems to want to cough up the money now - having interest is one thing, putting the money up is another.

I hope it wont change the price too much.

I guess 90% of the bids on that were with "bolt it on for performance" in mind which in this case at $400 its a rip as you could get a H89 cheaper.

However, if for some reason someone wanted it for novelty reasons, yeah the price depends how bad they want it.

At anyone wanting one of these - BUY IT.

At 25 bucks Chris has got a real bargain here for you - look at the second option!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/H150-Conversio ... ories&hash=item3a599565ae

I haven't a clue as to what seal it has as the rebuild kits for the T25 are both very popular in the dynamic and carbon seal form - best bet is to have a look inside the turbo or look up more on the net with the specific year the turbo came out.

In Jmac's last post it goes to show that a suck through is the better setup. Carbs are designed to run on a vacuum. You can force air through it - but it will not tune like you would expect it to. So for the average DIYer, I'd recommend a draw through setup for ease of tuning as the carb just sees more flow ("bigger" engine).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-NEW-Box ... ories&hash=item35aae7cbaf

ATM its at $400 - do the bidders realize its a swirl port (H95) - is there some mystical performance gain from these heads; I think not..unless I've missed something.