I was going to get separate K&N's for each carb but at $80 EACH! it just wasn't worth it - plus my "airbox" and brace support the carbs more.

All I need is a bonnet scoop (bug catcher lol) just above the pod filter.

Wow that's awesome, thanks for that - it was hard enough for me to upload a video and pics with my 8kbps internet lol (its slowed down now).

About time I put up some info of my Sunny.

Its pretty much your run of the mill 1979 Datsun Sunny currently in Granny spec apart from...

Extractors
2" Exhaust
Electric Distributor
Quad Motor Bike Carbs
Custom air box

Interior is in great nick and every thing works on the car (beside fan switch - only works full speed) and the clock. Will fix them once I have the dash out.

No rust on body, original paint and wheels.

The carbs are Mikuni BS34's using manifolds/air box I made. Having a 34mm bore they have the same cross sectional area as the stock carb but more flow because they don't have all sorts of crap in the bore - plus there's four of them. Being CV of a function they perform great, have good response and are very street able.

My plans for the car now is to drive it till I blow it up some how. I did a vacuum test today and I got a steady needle but a little low on vacuum saying late ignition timing (however, ignition timing actually correct) meaning I'm low on compression I guess - rings are a bit tired. So once I'm ready I'll pull the motor and reco the gearbox Plus do a worked NA build.

Hi Comp Pistons
Camshaft
Lighten Pulley (smaller dia. too), flywheel, rods, crank, push rods, Ali. retainers, Ali. rockers
Knife edge crank + chamfer/tear drop oil holes
Polish valves, rods, crank, combustion chamber, exhaust ports (and grit blast inlet port + tracts)
3 angle valve grind
Springs
Larger sump
Oil cooler
Bigger radiator
Adjustable timing sprocket
Port head
New rings, seals and bearings
New oil/fuel pump/water pump
And more stuff once I remember it...

Here's some pics and a Video (would be nice to embed it but I don't know how).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ebgLYcjkJc

I just love the ITB intake sound - despite somewhat muffled from the air filter and whizzing fan. The exhaust note is pretty good for a $50 muffler and the decel after the rev sounds cool.

Pics:

http://img228.imageshack.us/f/imgp0319w.jpg/
http://img706.imageshack.us/f/imgp0320p.jpg/
http://img717.imageshack.us/f/imgp0321w.jpg/
http://img36.imageshack.us/f/imgp0322i.jpg/
http://img43.imageshack.us/f/imgp0323m.jpg/
http://img15.imageshack.us/f/imgp0324t.jpg/
http://img43.imageshack.us/f/imgp0326z.jpg/

Definitely a topic where quality over quantity rules. Buy good stuff first and you wont be needing huge subs and walls of speakers.

Hmm, that seems like the logical choice there D, however will the a12a rods handle it?

Also, I'm trying to firstly get a A14/15 whole engine setup going, if I cant do that at least I want to use a A14/15 head on my A12 Block and if I even cant get a head for that Ill just use a Ported M30 - which is easier for me because my Quad bike carby setup is already running on a round port manifold. However, if I can land myself a A14/A15 I'd willing make a manifold for it (with Chris' manifold flanges!)

Also with most head having 30cc chamber volume, I guess the CR is determined via the piston dish then?

If that doesn't work you can aways hire a steam pressure cleaner and THAT will clean it lol.

Good heavy duty degreaser and let it soak or add citric acid to water and use that.

I was doing some fact finding on the M30 (round port) head vs the H89 (A15 Oval Port) head and was tossing up between the two.

Apparently the M30 can be ported to flow as much as the H89 however a ported H89 flows even more as the M30, when ported past H89 spec runs into water jackets etc.

So for a worked A12, should I leave the stock H89 ports with a cleanup... or de-shrourd then and open them up more? This would be for a modified steet setup - that's gonna be revved! Or even port the M30 head and just use that?

The stock H89 valves are at 37 In and 29 Ex and will be fine for the setup in mind - better than the M30 35/29 valves.

Both heads use a closed chamber design I believe.

The other thing I'm having trouble with is the combustion chamber cc's - does anyone know what the stock, unmilled head cc's are for the M30 and H89 heads?

Now compression ratios, technically speaking - is it better to mill the head to achieve a desired compression ratio or is it better to change/eliminate the piston dish?

Me using an A12 block with a H89 head would need to probably use A10 flat top pistons (no dish) then even still mill the head so that I have a good enough CR to run 98 fuel.

What are your thoughts?

If he was going to water abrasion cut 10mm flanges no wonder they would be expensive lol. The laser cutters would be better and even cheaper still would be plasma cut but then you have that horrible chamfer left on 50% of edges.

Would you have a rough price for a stainless intake clyons8? I may want stainless intakes because stainless TIGs so much better/neater/easier than mild steel and when polished looks great - obvious choice for the intake is aluminum but our ali. TIG at work is rooted and wont weld aluminum extrusion (tubes) no matter the gas/electrode/cleanliness of the ali.