I don't know what was wrong! I just threw in a 1/4 cup fuel in the air box and then she fired right up. It had spark but the plugs were dry?! And the carbs were clean and they were getting fuel so idk. Works now though (don't ya just love the redneck fixes).

I've got an electric dissy now with a new cap and newish (hah) rotor. The leads are those blue silicone ones so they are recent I'm guessing. If it doesn't start this morning easily I'll check out the dissy.

I saw that episode and looking back on it - why design LPG injection any other way?

Its just so neat how they work.

I'll be up for 2 round port inlets (assuming I could open them up to oval port sizes if needed - bolt patterns are the same right?) and 2 exhausts - All mild steel.

This is assuming there around $30ea (are they still?)

Where is that resistor? Let me guess - behind the dash :/

The fan ONLY runs in No.3 position - wont work on 1 or 2 even after switching to 3 first. In the case of dirty contacts, is there a way to clean then without removing the whole dash?

Turns out the contact were a bit loose on the coil ddgonzal so thanks for that fix! I pinched then with piers to make then tighter and it worked. I'll try and replace them asap with new ones though.

Thirdly, another issue came up. I had the car in the drive washing/cleaning it (I drove it their) after cleaning I started it and idled if for about a min.

I came to start it 2 hours later and it refused to start after cranking the battery flat (I was trying to start it assuming it would fire on the on position as it turned out the coil had dirty contacts). I saw the fuel gauge and it was on empty (Datsun fuel gauge though, so idk lol).

I put more fuel in and charged the batt. and it wont start and the plugs are dry plus I'm getting spark.

So, is it possible that the fuel pump is run dry. Do stock A12 fuel pumps self prime?

Feel like such a noob as these stupid little things are getting in the way all of a sudden when the car was perfectly fine last time I used it.

I've noticed that my fan switch (OFF-1-2-3) only turns the fan on when in the number 3 position (position 1 and 2 dont do any thing). Does anyone have a wiring diagram that I could use to see what wires/connectors are the ones I should be checking? Did this happen to anyone else?

Secondly, when starting the car about 80% of the time I crank it in the START position and it never starts. It only fires if I turn the key to ON. Then the other 20% of the time the car will crank AND start while the key is in the ON position. This intermittent problem has me stumped as to whats wrong?

@bakat

You can do this though only on a draw through setup.

@estyre

For a turbo to be draw through compatible you need to rebuild it with a carbon seal or find one with a carbon seal already. You would then need to source a seal (local? or most likely on the net with the right thrust plate). My idea was to pull the turbo apart, find the shaft size then go out to a bearing supplier and find a matching carbon seal and machine my own thrust plate at home/work.

With blow through you really needed build a box around the carby and allow for the fuel to pass through the side of it (weld in a pipe + hose clamp some hose to it) and also for the choke/throttle (use cable glands) and even the ported vac (gland) for boost retard/vacuum advance.

Pressurizing the carb throat (using a carb plenum instead of box) can work but tuning will be very different than in NA situations. On the other hand using the stock carb in the box means there's no need to tune the carb (unless the motor is worked) because the carb will meter fuel correctly to that motor as its got even pressure inside ad out.

You will need a RRFPR, return line and high pressure fuel pump - IHO just added cost when you could run draw through and get basically the same power for less cost.

The 32/36DGV can be used with blow through as the stock carbie can.

Any carb can be used for draw through and any carb can be used for blow though - obviously some are easier than others.

Another sunny driver! Mines green met. and 4spd.

I've got a 1979 one with the round headlights - old look minus the rust of a 120y.

I'll get a thread up soon of it (only done electric dizzy, motor bike carbs, extractors and exhaust to it so far)

All it needs is a couple Weber IDA's.

90% of cases dont need meth. as most people only need cooling (so water does this fine), water also acts as a knock suppressor.

The only benefit of meth. is more octane and a tiny bit more cooling as it evaporates quicker. I planned on using the meth in the injection to act as a fuel (ie on boost with out injection I would be lean) so that with the injection the fuel air would be ok.

Most people jet/tune their engines so on boost they are good with fuel air - then inject water and meth. on top of that when they only really needed water alone in the first place. The extra meth. they injected is only so they can tell their mates "my car runs of methanol".

So yeah, you only really need water injection UNLESS you tune to use that extra fuel from the meth. should you inject it. Other wise injecting it over a good fuel air ratio already is pointless.

@jmac

That's what I was getting at with carb limitations - when going to a bigger motor than a datto A series 2 inch SU's and flat slides are maxed out so a bigger carb is needed. Holley 4 barrels are a good choice (probably the best carb for mid size engine suck through setups) especially with their double accelerator pumps. Multiple carbs can be setup but its just a PITA, more than one carb to rejet plus syncing them etc.

@thedevilshands
I originally decided to jet the carb a touch lean at WOT (on the main jet) then use the AD injection on boost to compensate and correct the fuel air ratio with how much meth. I added to the water.

However, separate systems seems good as I can see myself buying meth. by 44 gallon drums!