Yeah stainless can be used to shim the head to change CR ratio but a sealant is still needed - where as copper it seals on its own once annealed.

Surely in today's day and age there must be a sealant where you apply it to the block and the head (once they are machined nice and flat) and all you have to do is bolt it together with out gaskets etc. Is there anything else than loctite 515 (its not high enough temp I think)?

Lol D, switch on the pedal - as simple as it is thats not a bad idea. After all you can fine tune when it starts to inject. All thats needed extra is a solenoid valve to stop water getting sucked in once the manifold is at vacuum. Then there's the problem of no LED's flashing at you to make it look 'cool' heh.

Brass would be worse - the zinc will make a sacrificial anode and leave swiss cheese copper left. Copper is the best on its own I think.

Only thing to gain would be control over how much water to meth you have - but you can do that simply by adding whatever ratios of H2O and meth. you want in the tank in the first place.

I guess if you really wanted you could use a microprocessor and injet water depending on intake air temps then separately inject meth. according to a reading from a knock sensor. Only benefit from with is possibly less meth/water consumption as in my system I designed you just inject both at the same time and more than needed to be on the safe side.

So...

Whoz gonna build one for me and tell me how it works :D

Geez, this was the most work I done all week! (Broken leg and staying at home - yes its the throttle foot!)

Heres a "plumbing" diagram, layout for the electrics box and even a circuit.

Suitable pump - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-Volt-High-P ... ories&hash=item335eb16681

Suitable Switches (need to be calibrated) - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOBBS-PRESSURE ... ories&hash=item4cf04fff4f

Needle valve - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CO2-NEEDLE-VAL ... plies&hash=item43a02681f8

Solenoid - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12V-DC-1-4-Sol ... plies&hash=item1c13ec1ec0

RRFPR - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-RISING-RAT ... ories&hash=item2a080948b9

Nozzle - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Misting-Fog-No ... pment&hash=item4a95dd07ed

Float Switch - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Horizontal-wat ... pment&hash=item45f34e2f8a

You can use a surge tank for the water tank.

Electronics are pretty straight forward (Jaycar, RS, Farnell, etc).

The boost cut is crude and allows for fully sick back fires!
You can add a 1000uF capacitor across the boost cut LED to stop flashes and to get a better indication.

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  Meth. Injection.jpg (83.77 KB)

If I get a moment I'll try and draw up a diagram + give pointers for parts on ebay.

@thedevilshands

He put it before the turbo (non pressure side) so he could use a washer bottle with integral pump (low pressure) for the injection just to make it easy, simple and cheap I guess.

It doesn't make it easier on the turbine as in the end the compressor wheel is still being bombarded with water droplets (much heavier than fuel) so when the turbine spins at +100,000rpm they will erode.

Then again I don't have any experience with this turbine erosion as I've only heard of it on the net - come to think of it I tried looking for pictures for this elusive erosion and didn't find any! So, you probably can get away with the washer bottle way but its harder on the turbo and doesn't work as good as proper injection because when you run a high pressure pump (100psi) the water and metho coming out of the fogging nozzle is very finely atomized and mixes better with the fuel/air.

Pumping it before the turbo doesn't really mix it with the fuel/air as the turbo acts like a centrifugal pump and separates the water from the air charge.

So, the washer bottle does work (hell it's worth a shot too because it takes nothing to get it working) but a proper setup is much better.

I was thinking that should I want to adapt the flat slide draw through setup to other cars (larger engines) what could be done in terms of carburation as the 48mm Mikuni is sort of maxed out on 1200cc's.

Turns out they make these!

http://www.thecrankshopvt.com/product ... 1f2ab095e78cb97202bef15a1

While looking boring and like a science project - they should work just like any other flat slide - only down side is there is no accelerator pump - which on a carb that big its nearly a prerequisite.

The 52X65mm one flows 2800 "units" and the Mikuni 48mm flows 1800 "units" - thats 55% more! Pity they look crap.

Never was much of a SU man. I dont mind the CV function, but I just don't like the look of an SU. Each to his own I guess...