I'm running a locked elec. dizzy but yeah I'll be looking into a knock sensor in the furture so I can get full power.

Its a carby and I will be running a full time AEM Wideband guage and sensor so I can tune it myself. This (single, cable operated) carby will be a breeze to tune compared the the 4 carb, SU type BS34 I managed to get running and tune.

In a search I used to find that photo I edited I found a series of pictures showing timing chain replacement in car and only by taking the timing cover off. It seems as if it is do able.

Put it this way, Ill try the timing cover approach, but if I feel as if it wont go back together and seal properly then I'll pull the motor and do it properly.

I'm just trying to avoid pulling the motor because, well, I've never done it before lol. However, I like the timing cover idea as the Ali. has some meat to tap a thread in it and the location is spot on and is close to the turbo oil exit.

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I have a bunch of pics on my phone at random steps in making the mani, inlet, charge pipe, dump pipe, water injection, etc. I'll do a write up once I'm done - if I start it now I'd prob get half way though it an abandon it lol.

Its a pretty high spec setup as Ive got a lathe, mill, mig, tig, pipe bender, pedistal drill, bench grinder, linisher, die grinder, drop saw and all the tooling to suit my machine tools in my shed so no short cuts here as I'm making all the parts on my time/equiptment.

The setup will use the Mikuni HSR 45 I've orderd off "ePay".

Back on topic...

I've looked under the hood a bit and noticed I could plumb the drain into the timing cover?!

On the right hand side (looking from the front) near the bottom on the side is a 1 inch wide flat area that I could drill/tap the fitting into. Check the picture to see what I mean.

The idea of this is so that I can remove the cover easily from the car and still drill/tap in a decent drain.

Can anyone see what could be wrong with having the drain like this? It still is above the oil level so I think its ok. I can still route the drain to this location (clears the fan belt buy 1 inch so thats ok and it will still miss the near by water outlet)

Only down side I see is needing to replace gaskets but I already have a full gasket set plus I can inspect the water pump bearings/seals while Im at it - timing chain too.

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Thats my thought, use the spike method for now then when the motor goes pop (185,000km motor on 18psi boost wont last too long) and when I rebuild it I can TIG weld in a threaded boss.

I can machine spikes and make test holes to figure out the correct size then tap the hole with grease + oil change and I should be safe.

Anyone know the thickness of the sump steel? 1.2mm?

Hey all,

Its getting to that point in my turbo build where I have to run oil lines for the turbo.

For the oil line to the turbo I'll be T'ing of the oil sender with a -4AN hose and for the return line I will be trying to weld a boss into the sump.

Now the issue is; how do I go about removing the sump?

I dont want the pull the motor and removing the cross member is a big job isnt it? What is involved with removing the cross member?

Should removing the sump be too big of a job I can try to ram a metal spike in the sump and tap the hole....then realise its crap and pull the sump anyway lol.

Thoughts? ideas?

Do you remember if the gilmer drive you used was the short or long nose water pump from the chev? I was looking into getting this setup on my boosted motor and it turns out theres 2 gilmer setups for chev small blocks - short and long type water pump shaft?!

Efi will make it easier to make it more drivable but it will have he same power as the carby equivalent.

I will be using a carby on my draw through setup - Mikuni HSR 45. It has an accelerator pump and looks sick bolted the the front of a turbo and can even be brought polished if wanted. Being a motorbike carb with a CABLE operated slide the tuning would take an arvo.

I've thought of EFI but after getting all the sensors and hooking it up and the big bucks invested - you have to send it off to get tuned which I couldn't bare as I like to do my work myself.

For a first time attempt at turbocharging I'm all for the carby but to the experienced person EFI is a good alternative.

Pull the leads at idle one at a time and see if all 4 are sparking (most likely are) so it could be a fuel air issue?!

Possibly a vacuum leak so at high inlet vac. situations it sucks too much air to burn (ie when the throttle is shut)? Just a thought.

I got mine today!

I was like a kid on christmas morning opening the package lol.

Thanks for organising and putting all this together Chris; the flanges came out great (fits well too).

Apparently GCG doesn't know of one for my turbo and said the only option is a $1200 turbo they suggested for me to buy...

All that's left now is to get a carbon seal from another small turbo and I'll machine up a custom carbon setup.

A garret T15 or T20 would work but none are on ebay.