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   All Posts (Strop)




Re: Electronic Dizzy question.
Just can't stay away
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Heya Greendog, All I did mate was swap the -tive & +tive wires from the old coil over to the new one. Then just wired in the dizzy wires to the coil as well. red: +tive and the black: -tive. Hope I did it right, haven't started the car yet. Still awaiting my carby. Hope this helps mate, but like I said, it's not tested as yet.

Posted on: 2010/7/3 7:27
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Re: Electronic Dizzy question.
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Oh cool. That's good news, was hoping it would be reasonably easy to fix if it broke Thanks for that dd.

I'll just wire them both into the back of the coil and suck it and see

Posted on: 2010/7/3 3:31
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Re: Electronic Dizzy question.
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The dizzy and the coil come together as a set, so I would expect that they are compatible.
The coil has no markings at all and the only markings on the dizzy is the etched numbers 0951. Not much there. There are made for the A series engine, my old man bought it for me so not too sure from where though.

So wire both the leads from the dizzy to the coil yeah?

Attach file:



jpg  Dizzy #.jpg (96.28 KB)
13253_4c2e8754392cf.jpg 600X800 px

Posted on: 2010/7/3 1:41
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Re: Electronic Dizzy question.
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So the wires are from the dizzy. The second shot is the back of the coil....Really should learn more electrical stuff.

Clay

Attach file:



jpg  photo(2).jpg (121.98 KB)
13253_4c2dc574047bd.jpg 600X800 px

jpg  photo(3).jpg (140.64 KB)
13253_4c2dc58be0a12.jpg 600X800 px

Posted on: 2010/7/2 11:55
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Electronic Dizzy question.
Just can't stay away
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Heya guys,

Stupid question of the week incoming....

Do the 2 wires from the dizzy itself connect to the + & - points on the coil terminal? If so, what do they do exactly? Tried searching it and found some old forums, but I must be super slow and couldn't understand it.

Cheers

Clay

Posted on: 2010/7/2 10:16
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Re: A14 & T25G?
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Thanks heaps for the info guys, appreciate it.
Thanks for the offer too Dan, I will let ya know. Guess I need to start collecting a few bits and pieces. I'm excited.

Posted on: 2010/6/29 6:07
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A14 & T25G?
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Heya,

Got my hands on a T25G the other day and considering fitting it to an a14. I haven't played with turbos before, so can someone help me understand a lil better.

Are they a good match? & Can the T25's be used in a Draw-through setup or are they only good for Blow-through?

Thanks in advance guys.

Clayton

Posted on: 2010/6/28 4:16
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Re: Stuck on an engine problem
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Thanks heaps Fandatstick and ddgonzal for you replys.

I did re-assemble the carb myself, so I could have stuffed it up. I might take the carby of and look to see where I went wrong. Other than that I guess a new carb might be in order as this one is showing signs of age (as in pitting).

I opened the choke out and set it as per standard.

The inlet manifold does have a rubber hose that runs to the back of the engine, but that is it. It is about a 20mm hose. I'll have to double check this when I get home.

Thanks again guys, really appreciate it.

Clay

Posted on: 2010/6/11 0:39
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Stuck on an engine problem
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Heya guys,

I'm not that good with engines.

I'm hoping someone with more knowledge than me can help with an engine diagnosis problem I am having.

Bit of history: I recently purchased a 1200 ute with an A14 in it. I was hoping for a driving rebuild/project with this car but ran into issues the day I got it

One problem I was having was a flat spot when you depressed the accelerator so I took a look at the plunger and noticed it was worn, so I put a kit through the carby (standard carby). Taking the carby off I noticed that the choke (manual) was set to have the butterfly close…engaged all the time. Then I noticed that the throttle screw was out 7 full turns from seated. Got to thinking that was a whole heap of fuel going into the engine with minimal air just to drive it.

So while the carby was off, I decided to do a compression test and found that the #4 cylinder was lower than the rest. #1 – 155psi, #2 - 155psi, #3 – 150psi, #4 – 130psi. It was low but I figured that it was still ok to run.

I checked the static (no light yet, need to get one) ignition timing and it was like 15-18deg in advance… I put it back to factory ~8deg.

So I bolt on the carby and turn it over, it fires but now it is coughing big time with the dreaded bluish smoke. It does sound like it is running on 3 cylinders. Checked spark was getting to the plugs, plugs are sparking, cleaned and gap set.

I am at a loss,
1st: why is it now blowing smoke and farting like a howitzer when it wasn’t previous?
2nd: What could have been behind the thinking of so much fuel going in earlier?
3rd: Why so much advance in the ignition timing?

Can someone please point me in the right direction with this, I don’t have a great knowledge working with engines. I am resigned at this point to do a rebuild on this car, I haven’t even put 20km on it. Not that I payed much, but still.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Clay

Posted on: 2010/6/10 0:22

Edited by Strop on 2010/6/10 1:28:18
Edited by Strop on 2010/6/10 2:48:30
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Re: anti-dieseling valve
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Thanks for the awesome info Dodgeman and Tommo.

I have just put a kit through the carby and noticed the anti-dieseling valve has the wires pulled out. Put the carby back on and the car runs as rough as with whiteish/blue smoke puffin out (didn't have this prior to carby clean). Thinking I bought a 'lemon' at this stage. Lucky they are reasonable easy to fix. Just need the knowledge....

Cheers

Posted on: 2010/5/28 1:59
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