I had a similar problem on my 1200. Basically the pedal became hard and my front right brake was grabbing and almost locking up.
I knew it couldn't be the callipers because they had been rebuilt, so I took the brake line off and cut it open. To my horror I found the rubber inside had degraded and almost blocked the line. Once replaced with a better line from the wreckers, brake bleed, no more problems!
If in doubt, chuck them out. Take the car to a brake place if still stumped.

The 310 has the same calliper bolt spacing as the 180b. This means that you can also fit Mitsubishi verada discs and commodore vs etc callipers. But it seems a bit excessive and weighty.

You can also use early Toyota hilux callipers such as the S12 (non-vented disc). Might be a better choice. Do a search on it.

Great advice. I know this is very much a specialist area and one can spend a great deal on getting a rally set up. As people say, it's a process of experimentation to see what works. The weight of the car at each corner, getting the correct rate and length springs (what about variable rate?), and adjusting the dampners to match (non gas being adjustable with different oil weights).
I have a CA18 with 200b struts, so I would need front springs 50% higher rate than the stock 1200 in theory (A12=87kg; CA18=128kg). So stock spring rates are 91 pounds/inch, one would need a 47% increase in rate which equates to around 133 pounds/inch. Don't know if that really holds up in the real world though! Are the advantage of custom coilovers simply to offer more -ve camber?

Sounds like keeping the stock leafs rear (people have used a single leaf with good results apparently) with good shocks is adequate for a budget set up which is probably what I'm after.

Ok so I don't have stock struts or engine, and thus I can't stick with stock set up. Long springs and good adjustable shocks sounds like the basic theme.
For the rear standard leafs with anti-tramp bar or similar and adjustable shocks. I've noticed some people use more leafs on front half of springs and less on rear to avoid tramp.
Any other ideas?

I've seen a few suggestions on rally set ups, but nothing specifically on this. It seems most of us like to lower our cars, but what about the oldies here who want some more comfort? I want subaru suspension, don't mind to ride a bit higher. Maybe use oil shocks not gas and longer springs with variable rate? Any good combo's out there?

I know it's been discussed but I thought I'd add this article for those who missed the news.

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Well I think I have the left original CA18 engine mount. After the right one.

I bought some Mad dat mounts many years ago, good for 400 hp, but I find them a bit stiff. I am looking to sell these or swap.

What's the deal with these landrover mounts? Are they just as comfortable as the original CA18 ones? It's a very nice offer of 10 bucks a pair.

Justin

Hey guys,

I have one good one, just need one more but will buy set if you want. PM or leave message, thanks.

Right. Thanks for the info. Looking at the pictures it doesn't seem like an easy fix. A rust hole in the water box also explains why my air vents are next to useless. Instead of entering the heater and cabin, the air is rushing out through the rust holes! My previous 1200 had a great vent pressure.

Problem was partially severed throttle cable which was catching and causing the butterfly to stay open, but didn't show up when I checked the butterfly!
How annoying.