I think old mate means 245/70/13?

I'd recommend 8-9" as a minimum, but they should work on a 7" to 11" rim

are these semis? full slicks? etc? model number would help :)

Ok well for anyone interested, and just so the info is here in case anyone searches, I sourced a set of standard steel rims from an ST141 Corona. They are 14x5 (5.5? they're not marked and I haven't measured yet) and by eye (again, haven't measured) are a similar offset to standard so they are located correctly inside the guards and should allow me to keep the standard front track.

The rims clear all steering/suspension (standard late 120y) & brake components (CA S13) perfectly. They were fitted with bulky 195/70/14s which are wider than I'd intended and also quite tall given the width & 70 profile. Unladen these tyres rub the spring perch lightly (ie. can still turn wheel by hand), which isn't an issue as I always intended to run a smaller tyre.

I'm intending to run 175/70/14s which width-wise should give 10mm extra clearance to the spring perch and and strut) and in a 70 profile with the smaller section should fit without issue as they're 31mm shorter in relation to the hub centre which should move the tyre well away from the strut... by rights should allow loading & deflection with no clearance issues.

Will post up here with results!

whats the go with the offset on bluebird steelies?

i thought they were farked, like trx rims?

I'm fairly new here so others will perhaps have more specific answers regarding your prospects with A-series engines.

In my opinion you have two options:

1. Make a conscious decision to keep the car on a low budget, you can either persist with your existing A12 or source a later model, larger capacity A-series engine as a better starting point. A capacity increase of 15-or-so percent is your best modification on a budget but some people are touchy about changing engines so that's up to you. From there & regardless of which engine you choose to run with, put a basic rebuild kit through it, and give it a few very mild upgrades while it's open (minor touchup on the head, bump up the comp a touch, maybe a very mild cam upgrade) and then have something that goes a bit better, has a fresh motor, and still drives great.
2. Will an L-series fit into a 1200 without major issues? There's a 2.4lt stroker (suit rebuild) for sale on Boostcruising. This with twin webers would be by far the coolest thing in the world.
3. If you believe this is going to be a long-term car for you, start the process of converting to a CA or SR (whichever your preference) now and accept the inevitable! You can do this one of two ways... spend your money on supporting mods (r31 lsd, coilovers, brakes) in advance or if you prefer (or already have this stuff) then get straight onto the conversion trail... if you can't beat 'em, join 'em!

In my opinion spending money/effort on bombing an atmo A-series, or turbo-ing one, is a road potentially filled with joy and potentially filled with headaches.

there must be like a hundred of these on here

Startup noise is most likely valvetrain not bottom end.
250rpm is what, 2% of the engine's available RPM?

Higher cold tolerances, low rpm, absolutely no load and the fact that even high-end cars are sold with 3-5 years warranties without these devices suggests they're a waste.

You're welcome to get one, just know that we'll all laugh at you.

I suppose your cupboards at home are filled with ab-curlers, steak knives, sham-wows and a sniggi :)e?

Sounds like a bit of a wank to me.

If you are concerned, connect a relay & switch to your ignition trigger so that it cranks without starting. That way you can build oil pressure off the starter at 250rpm not at 1000-2000rpm as per a cold startup. IMHO existing oil residue is sufficient protection during the cranking period given low rpm, no load and cold tolerances. It also costs $10 not however much that kit is, and is much simpler. If you're running an A-series the beauty is simplicity & relatively light weight.. don't mess that up.

Personally I've never bothered doing that except where an engine is started with a dry head or hasn't been run for an extremely long time. If I had a weekend-only car with a big dollar motor then I'd probably do it but taht would eb more to make myself feel good rather than actually protecting anything.

Just after some 4x114.3 steelies in 14" to put on my 120Y.

Preferably not R31 rims

If you have any trouble, go to a truck place. I'm in QLD so can't recommend a specific one but there will be heaps of the things. I've had numerous tailshafts made by Gibbs Truck Parts on the Gold Coast.