No specific 1200+rotor experience here but depending on what you're after it can be just as expensive as fitting a later Nissan motor.

Something I was taught a lot of years ago was to never get under a car that doesn't have something solid like stands, pile of rims, blocks of wood, etc.

Served me well yesterday, when my trolley jack collapsed rather spectacularly! Apart from an elevated heart rate and a bit of a ding in my spare wheel well, happy to report that I survived.

the other good news is that the diff is all in & done. I decided to run the standard 720 brake & rim setup for now and everything fits really well. Mechanically it's prettymuch finished once I do the tailshaft and the handbrake cable.

Only other things I need to do are change over to tyres (note in pics they have the massive profile tyres that came on the 720 rims), overhaul the drums to make sure they're working all good, and maybe give it a little bit of a prettyup with better wheelnuts etc.

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on a car this light you really need the lightest braking package you can put together. i would stay well away from landcruiser/hilux calipers as they're both heavy and physically massive.

anything 230-250mm and vented with compact calipers and decent pads will be HEAPS in a car of this weight.

Looks fantastic

So what ever happened to this?

I can't speak for the CA18 specifically, but commonly injectors and/or coils can be batch fired. I would be checking the earth & power wires to the injectors and coilpacks.

hey mate, hope that quake didn't hit you too badly...?

anyway i got the bearings etc removed today so will have a bit of a play with it all this evening.

Honestly, I would try to make up the 20mm with wheel fitment. The whole thing we're trying to avoid here is having to shorten the housing and axles. If you're shortening anyway, you may as well start with a better diff (meaning something with the correct stud pattern, disc brakes, and LSD options).

If it helps though, having just done a 'guesstimate' measurement the splined section is approx 32mm long & of that about 80% looks to be the engaged area.

Well I've established that the tailshaft flange is:

(a) the same as a bluebird h190 (by eye only, yet to measure)
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqYOKpEE0VpV8Mw1BN(vIGpiF!~~_12.JPG
copy & paste this as it's not recognising the link properly

(b) different to my 120y flange (rear diff, this is the borg warner apparently. front diff is the h190)



I will know more about brakes when I get my hands on a bearing press.

I haven't read the thread mate, but I can make some general comments from an insurance perspective:

1. budget at least $5k for an appropriate insurance program. remember it's a tax writeoff so that's not as much as it sounds. don't cut corners as people always complain when they don't have insurance but nine times out of ten it's because they spent 10 years and tens of thousands of dollars building a business, but 10 minutes and the least amount of money possible to cover insurance.

2. choose a professional sounding name but avoid 'racing' etc as that won't help with getting insurance!

3. find an insurance broker in your local area that can organise your coverage appropriately. they can recommend exactly what you do/don't need but bear the following in mind:

* make sure you have public/products liability insurance

* make sure it includes 'care custody and control' for customers goods including motor vehicles - if your business burns down or cars are stolen you MAY be held liable.

* make sure you understand if your insurance does or doesn't include "driving risk" which is basically comprehensive insurance for any customer's vehicle you happen to drive. you can make all the disclaimers you want but if you're negligent then you may still be held accountable. this even includes if the person has their own vehicle insurance as they may not pay, OR they may pay and then sue your business for the money.

* consider statutory liability / business practices cover. this covers you if there is an inadvertent legal issue - eg if you do something you think is legit but you get chased by the RTA for it. this mostly only happens when you work on a car which is involved in a serious accident but they also do random audits (not financial audits, compliance audits) etc.

* consider business interruption / weekly profits cover. if your shop is damaged, burns down, etc then your income stops but your bills/rent/whatever generally don't!

* make sure your property insurance covers 'tools of trade' to an appropriate amount. some have limits on tools etc so you might have $50k cover but it might be limited to $2k for tools which doesn't far!!!

Don't feel like you're wasting your broker's time, as they'll generally earn 10% or so of whatever premiums you pay (eg. $5k premium = $500 commission for them), plus they'll normally charge you a fee of approx 5% (eg. $5k premium = $250 fee)

in general this is useful info for any business.