Ok, very little to report unfortunately. Parenting duties seem to crop up as does the C.B.F (couldn't be f'd) reflex due to being more tired than normal!

What I've mainly been working on is getting the engine mounts sorted. I'm still playing around with a few ideas but at this point I'm going to use a VW Golf rear intrusion bar (!!) that I've cut the mounting section off. I'll post some photos when I get a chance so you can see what the hell I'm talking about!
I've also been fiddling with the front brakes. At this point I'm going to run VT Commodore calipers and hubs/discs to get the same stud pattern as my Commodre diff.
Getting a bit ahead of myself but I'm thinking of running good old Walkinshaw rims that I used to love back in the day when I liked Commodores. Dunno if they'd work but worth looking at! (Pictured below).
Just need to get a few things machined down to find out if these brakes are going to work. Hope it dos cause I've hacked the $hit out of my Stanza hubs to find out! I need to get the centre of the Commodore hub machined out so it fits over the top of the Stanza hub and then machine down the Stanza hub so it all still sits in the right spot for the disc to line up with the caliper. I'll also need to get 4-5mm taken off the diameter of the disc as the Stanza caliper mounts sit a bit closer to the strut. I'd rather come down a few mm on the disc than stuff around with caliper spacers. If it works man it will stop! The discs are 296mm (less what I take off) and the twin piston calipers have a huge disc coverage. Might need to upgrade the rears but I'll see what it's like once it's working and I've boosted them.

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Don't refinance your house based on my recommendations but you should be laughing and would even be able to stroke it to 2.2L!!

VIC and NSW are currently the same in terms of the rules for conversions.
The ruling of main interest to you is the multiplication of weight to give you the cubic capacity in mililitres you can run.
The conversion is times 3 for a non turbo and times 2.5 for a turbo.
Going by the weight that Wikipedia lists for the B310 of 907kgs and multiplying by 2.5 you get the legal cubic capacity of 2267 mililitres (2.26 litre engine).
This link should tell you everything you need to know-

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/road ... on/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx

Datza Ranga

You might get a good option from a Datsun owner but you will definately get the cheapest option!
Datsun drivers certainly are a frugal bunch!

My recomendation would be work out how far you're going to lower it so you know how much you're going to chop off the strut. (I'm jumping the gun presuming you will need to lower it with the replacement struts you have?)
Then I'd go down to Pedders or Repco or similar and find out what length strut insert will match the strut after you've chopped the struts up to the appropriate length. They will also be able to choose the donor car that most accurately matches not only the length but the weight of the 1200 so they dampen correctly.
That's how I'll be doing it anyway! Best to get a little bit of professional advice at minimal extra cost!

Agree with Wardy.
Get yourself either a Ford Falcon, Holden Commodore or Nissan Skyline diff as they're all basically the same. They're a Borg Warner diff but I think they're made by BTR Engineering (Aussie company). I would personally recommend the Commodore version as they have a simpler brake setup. It is a straight in/out piston arrangement the same as a front caliper rather than the annoying rotating arrangement on the Ford and Skyline. The park brake is also very good in that it is like a drum setup inside the disc so neat and easy to adjust.
The other thing you need to consider is what stud pattern you want to run. Skyline is a 4 stud, Commodore is 5 stud 120 pcd and the Falcon in 5 stud 114 pcd. I've got 2 diffs but have decided to use the commodore (rather than Skyline) and I will convert the front to VT Commodore brakes (work in progress) so as to have matching stud pattern front and rear.
You can play around with axles or get them modified when you get your axles shortened but it all adds up!

I can help too if Ivan runs out of juice between Bendigo and Melbourne!! Hope he had to come here already! Let me know.

Not trying to be negative but unless it's got a CA18 in it I think you'll find that about $4000 will be closer to the mark (at best).

The best thing to do is Google this subject. Most of the returns will actually be from this forum.
Write down or copy all of the different options you read about into a MS Word file so you can refer back to it. It's easy to get side tracked while you're doing it.
There are hundreds of different options that people have been tried but it all gets a bit confusing after a while!
If you're going to change your rotors the likeliood is you will eed to change calipers as the standards won't be wide enough to accept the wider vented discs.
I can't give any advice of 120Y struts unfortunately as all my research has been into Stanza struts.
I'm not sure where you're located but Hoppers Stoppers here in Melbourne are very good at doing upgrades to standard struts.

Good question.
The 1200 Ute/Sunny Truck is very limited room wise and the angle of the rear cabin wall makes it harder again.
I'm going to make my claim to the Guiness Book of Datsun Records as the biggest freak driving a 1200 Ute, I'm 6'8" (203cm).
I'm thinking of running a licorice strap down the back of the cabin as a seat to maximise space!
Be good to see some other non licorice options.