even the best head bolts will stretch and over time loose thier strength from repeated retorquing, many newer engines have true stretch bolts, or "torque to yeild bolts" that require replacement after use.
it's always a good idea to just replace them whenever the haed is taken off, it's cheap insurance against a blown head gasket. most dealers can get them for you even if they don't stock them. 6 months ago they cost me about $3.00 (US) each.

put it in the collector, so that it samples all of the cylinders

grab your yellow pages and look up turbochargers or get ahold of Les at Clasic Datsun in Vista his number is (760) 940-6365
He should also be able to recomend someone in your area

Tom,
I'll call you saturday to make arrangements

a dump valve or pop off valve is used to keep the intake manifold from over pressurizing incase the waste gate fails to operate properly.
a waste gate is used to controll the amount of boost you get.
it's always a good idea to use both of them.

$50 ?
Does that come with a kiss or a bottle of Vaseline?
I have one I'll give you, you just need to figure out how to get it across the pond.
PM ME

kewl that also means that you can take care of that care package too

from looking at the pix you have, the head gasket failed, notice how the ring around the cylinder opening has come out of place. if you didn't over heat it, you'll most likely not need to surface the head, how ever it needs to be checked for flatness. the reason why shops have them surfaced each time is that it is cheap insurance that the problem will not return.
I also noticed that you have an excessive amount of rust in your cooling system, do you not use coolant?, there is more than one reason for using coolant, it will prevent freezing, it has a higher boiling tempeture, and most important it will prevent corrosion and rusting of internal coolant passages. plain water will not prevent the latter, in fact it will accelerate the effects of electrolisis and over time can and will corrode and rust parts to the point where they can no longer be used.

take the sleeve out (the nut like thing) then grab ahold of the brass part with a pair of pliers and twist and pull, it will come out

DD, the thing that needs to be taken into consideration is that there are, and always will be part number supresessions. one of the best examples of this was 26010-H1900, this was a right headlamp assembly for a B110, then in 74 it superseeded to 26010-H6300, then in 76 or 77 it superseeded to 26010-H7200, all of them are the same part and completely interchangeable. the back half of the Nissan parts numbering system doesn't necessaraly follow a specific orderly pattern, what I mean by this it that B110 parts (origanally designated) could have the following suffixs:
27700, 28500, H1000 through H4900, H7000, and H7100, and this is not all inclusive, B210 started with H5000 through H7800 and B 310 was H8500 through H9900, again this is not all inclusive, and can at times get extreemly confusing.
the only way to truly decypher a part number suffix is to have a copy of the model designation list for part number codes. I have it on micro fiche, but as yet have not found an economical way to get it into a paper form or onto CD, last quote I got was to take a complete set of micro fiche and put it onto cd was about $400.
siderack aside, I will consult with my friend at my local dealer and see if I can get a copy of his.