Put the head on with the gasket a layer of plastecine ontop of the piston with some light oil so it wot stick to the valves

Rotate the engine with cams pushrods in obviosly and this will leave a contact area on the plastecine

Take the head of and you can cut the contact area in half and measure the depths to determine how much you need to cut the piston tops for clerance


To make flycuts u can use a circle sanding pad that you can glue to the head of the valve and put a drill on the stem and cut away at the pistons slowly

Probably beter methods but has worked for me in the past

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-p ... ers/auction-726751665.htm

bonnet looks very nice to wish i could get these parts in australia

does anyone make these localy?

was wandering if anyone has used the guards and bonnets from this guy seems to look preety good from the pics.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-p ... ers/auction-726744041.htm

any idea what postage would cost to australia? wont be cheap i assume.

Hi im looking for a gx head for my 120y and i want to know what they go for and if anyone has one for sale

Thanks

Hmm thats all i can think of aswell
I can rule put the wiring in the dash as i changed the whole lot so shuld make it easier to find

Is got cut and joint wires to bypass the neutral saftey switch as previous owner has done a manual conversion

Il take all the tape of the wire and expose it all to look for shorts and wrong wiring tommorow and update what i find

Thanks

I just checked and no the alt light does not come one when i turn the ignition on only when instart the engine

The only light that turns on when inturn the igntiion to on isnthe oil pressure light which turns off as normal once instart it
Thanks

Yer i just dont underatant the charge light and sparks flying from alternator

Nt sure if putting a internal regulated alternator would fix it

I have been having this issue since i bought my 74 120y.

1.Problem is my dash alternator light stays on and brightness increases with revs
2. When measure with multimeter at alternator and battery i get 14.5volts when reving about 2000rpm and up so seems normal
3. When i keep reving it the voltage stays at 14.5v but at arpund 5000rpm my alternator shoots sparks every where
4. I have tried 3 alternators and 4 new and used voltage regulators nondifference
5.have changed the whole dash with wiring look as i thought its a short somewhere still same problem
6. When driving and rpm get high enough alt light get realy bright and blows fush
7. When i connect the external voltage regulator my rpms drop so inassume thats normal and charging

Know im out of ideas and i disconnect my regulator to drive and have to charge my battery everynight


Please shoot some ideas on what it could be as im out of ideas

Just one thing it was converted by previous owner to manual from auto but i have checked the wiring and cant find any issues

Thanks

Yer mines the fairly large type with a rectangle connector

Hi so i got another regulator from the wreckers and it does exatcly the same thing charge light wont come on when ignition is on and when you start it the charge lught turns on amd glows brighter according to engine rpm

This is the 3rd regulator know 2 new 1 used so i think i can rule thenregulator out as a problem??

Ive checked the wiring and cant find anything wrong with it

Also i realised all the regulators have 6wires but the harness on the car has two wires missing whats the other two on the regulator for?

Thanks