Yeah I've been using romedit but there is another out there called liveedit that I hear might be a bit easier?

Anybody used liveedit?

Hey dudes,

Are any of you blokes stuffing around with burning your own chips for the CA18? I've just started doing it myself and thought it would be worth asking around in case people had any tips or maps to share etc? I have had moderate success so far but am still in the early testing phase.

It's fairly easy to estimate how much your spring will compress using the spring rate and a rough corner weight estimate. Add a little to the corner weight estimate (about x1.1) to allow for the strut being at a shorter moment arm than the wheel in relation to the cross member. Divide your adjusted corner weight by the spring rate (use same units obviously) and this will be the compression of the spring with the weight on it. Subtract that from the starting length to give the spring length with weight on it.

You then need to have the strut in the car with a wheel on and lower it into position and measure from the top hat down to work out where your bottom perch needs to be to get that static ride height.

It's crude but has worked several times for me.

How were they even working RPM out? They might have just had some random constants in for wheel diameters and ratios etc and calculated it from the road speed, meaning it's not accurate.

Those pesky SR20's made my 137kw look pretty lame

Yeah the rear is a real unknown quantity. It's beyond any gut feeling to know what size bar is appropriate for this kind of configuration. The reference mount on the spring will move with the diff but to a lesser extent but that point can also flex when loaded up which further decreases the torsional rigidity.

1. It's not a street car
2. It's not on street tyres
3. The rear bar is very adjustable - the clamps on the springs can be adjusted as well as the mounts on the diff can be moved inwards.
4. I have a CA18DET - heavier than L banger
5. It has a minispooled diff

I appreciate the input and I too agree that they are probably too big but it is an experiment - hence the use of the work madness in the title. Both bars installed cost me about $10 all up because I had the bits lying around.

I will give an honest report on their performance once I get a chance to try them out.

The rear rubbers are standard R31 rear swaybar rubbers. They worked well because the R31 rear bar is about 17mm so with a 20mm bar through them they are a bit tighter. The front ones are nolothane and are indeed fairly thin. I unfortunately have no idea where they came from, I had them lying around. I'll have to work out what they are if I replace them one day.

You pretty much want to be using gas for everything except light structural, non-aesthetic stuff. The flux core wire is messy and does not produce an air tight weld making it insufficient for plumbing of any description.

It can be cheaper using gas once you start using it a bit because the flux core wire is much more expensive than the regular wire. (something like 3 times as much~)

with an oxy.

Once I test out the rear bar to see how it goes I was going to stick out an EOI to see if anybody was interested in one.

Front is R31, rear is 910 bluebird both with some serious remodelling. Both were obviously way too wide for the 1200 so had to be narrowed.