I don't get why they are called double reverse tail lights and not "clear indicator tail lights".

They are still just indicators right?

The KKR ones are good quality. A friend of mine has had one on his car for over 12 months and is going strong.

I wouldn't go near any of the rest

pm sent

Your final score was the product of 2 factors. Factor 1 was you estimated laps divided by completed laps where most teams came out with a factor between 2 and 3. Then factor 2 was the average over all your cars of the difference between their fastest and slowest lap for the whole day. The problem with that was that it was wet half the day. My quickest time was a 2:06 in the dry and somewhere around 2:40 slowest in the wet giving me a factor 2 of 34. Because we just cycled through drivers in the same order all day all 6 of us did wet and dry laps meaning our average factor 2 was really high!

The winning tactic was to have cars dedicated to dry laps and other cars for wet laps. That way each car's variance was much smaller. Duh!

Because we never planned on winning, we never even read the scoring system properly and in a way I'm glad we didn't because all drivers got equal track time and just had a good time rather than stressing about tactics.

Matty: No big bingles but HEAPS of offs resulting in cars bogged in mud. There was one bloke in a HQ cup spec car that must have caused about 3 safety cars! Quite a few seemed to lose their brains a bit once it got wet.

I got about 35 laps.

about 15 saturday and 20 sunday. Entry was $1500 per team.

There was compulsary practice on saturday where each driver had to qualify for the race by completing atleast 3 laps.

It's great fun but not so great for getting a solid routine for the track because you never get a full clean lap.

THere were old mini's doing 2:50+ laps as well as a supra doing low 1:50's, it was a bit chaotic at times!

Boof - The bloke with the corona's old man is mates with the firebase owner. The couple of sponsors were found just through friends etc.

whitesedan - I stopped using avon's because they were becoming quite expensive. While they could be had for ~ $50 a corner in reasonable condition, I was ripping them to shreds on the rear through overheating and too much power.

I ended up running RE55's on the front and Dunlop djo1's on the rear. The RE55's were new and are great. They are a 195/50/15 which improved front end feel a lot.

This weekend me and a bunch of mates competed in the annual phillip island regularity relay.

It was a great event with heavy rain to sunshine alternating all day. We ended up finishing in 44th position out of 50 cars due to not paying much attention to how the scoring worked. The best part was that all 6 cars made it through the day unscathed. It was officially the first track day the 1200 has come home from ready for the next which Im' rapped about.

I can't speak highly enough of the landcruiser brakes and QFM pads.

For anybody interested I ended up doing a 2:06 flat for a best time but that was with heavy traffic all day and short shifting to keep it cool for the long stints at the wheel. It felt like it probably had a 2:02 in it but we'll find out next sprint down there.

Sorry about cluttering the photo gallery with non-1200's but I just thought I'd give the team a bit of a plug for a top effort.
Here's me!





troy's SR 1600




The LAG510



Mark's "b"



Ryan's sil80



Matt's Corona

You don't want to block off that intire part, just the small fittings coming off it that go to the throttle. The 1/2"(size?) pipe is the thermostat bypass and you still want that - although that is just the conclusion I came to with mine.

I just went through the same problems with mine, I got the 1/4" fittings brazed shut. One comes off that little cast elbow and the other one is where it re-enters the cool water flow on that straight pipe under the manifold. You can just bypass the one at the back of the manifold and run it straight into the turbo water feed line on the back of the head.

As for your leak, take it apart and if you're sure that it's the solid part leaking then either find another or get it sealed by the person brazing up for pipes. You might just find a bit of corrosion on the fittings that can be taken off and I can't say enough for getting exactly the right size hose and clamps. Mine was leaking because I'd used clamps that were too large and when they crimped down on it they pinched the house in a funny way making it easier for the water to get out.

I'm more of a shelley craft fan. Toni Pearon either had some rank stylists or just cannot dress to her assets, her outfits always looked a little odd on AFHV.

There is no bolt on and go AFM upgrade as far as I know. If it bolted on and worked then it wouldn't be an upgrade because it would still be limited to the same maximum flow.

SR20 is a minor upgrade but probably not worth the bother. RB20 is reasonable, I think they are rated to 300hp or so. Z32 is what you want rated up to 500hp. I think there are some nissan V8 ones that also might work.

None of these are physical bolt ons either.

Why do you want to upgrade? have you upgraded the turbo and injectors as well?