Some pics of engine crossmember to suit ca18 engine, engine mounts are cheap eBay cortina mounts. All the steering gear is stanza stuff. Should be bit better than stock.

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Some photos of diff fitted after been shortened. Still waiting on the forged axles to turn up to fit and can't wait pretty excited to see how they look and fit.

Still will need to get leafs reset virtually flat to lower a lot more. Like the look of tyres tucked under guards. These are only small 225/50/15 as fit the 15x6.5 ford rims nice.

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Tig is for all alloy work, shortening struts and narrowing diff, exhaust manifold just stuff like that when want a good small join and it's fun rather than the mig.

Got no fancy tools just a kemppi 180 mig a cigweld 200i ac/dc tig and hand tools, no metal shaping tools etc just a hammer and improvise

Cadet1200 yea it's on here page 22 I think. I ended up selling it as a roller unpainted. The guy who bought it painted it yellow, not what colour I would of chose but looked good and stands out by the looks of it

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Hi Kulh. Nah only floor pan in boot I modified I didn't widened car outside. But yea I've done a few cars now so self taught I guess.

Thanks and that's what I was after is original look, keeps it clean.
So working on the diff now and I've narrowed the bw78 falcon diff, and was going to get axles resplined but found some forged ones from ATRacingWorld for $328 delivered, got a 24in and 30in long axle but with 8inch of spline on them so will cut to suit mine and room in future to narrow more depending what I want to do which is awesome as respline was more. Will get some pics when turn up to see how it all fits

So here's the idea of removing 200mm from centre of floor pan between the shock mounts to allow the 100mm each side, this gives 330mm of room for a decent tyre for the future. Photos just to see each area where I just bought some 1mm sheet metal and used what skills I got to fit it and shape it and weld in to make the rear whole again, I fully welded it inside first but turned the amps up and gave under the car a good full weld under so can weld inside fully smooth as under is neat enough to just paint over and barely see the welds. Still have to do some finishing touches to it all but just getting stuff done to get back on wheels and move on to other stuff.

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So the car is in the back shed, and now the ideas are going around of what to do as in suspension and brake setup etc. i aquired some sr20 brakes and rotors, with adapter plate to suit these 120y struts I had and run the diff that had disc brake conversion, but I put that stuff aside as really wanted to go 5 stud and a EL falcon xr8 lsd diff come up real cheap so that's a start, but what to do with the rear end, thinking do I leave it or tub it, I did tell myself I wasn't going to get myself into this mess again with cutting the ass out of a car but as I don't have many interior parts I thought #OOPS# it might aswell try something different and it all helps with learning and improving my skills with these builds, took awhile just thinking how will I approach this rear end, and on the cheap aswell as don't have spare cash to throw some rear coils at it and triangleated 4 link which is what I wanted instead I measured and outlined where I can cut the rear floor out and unstitch the chassis from each end so I can just narrow the whole rear floor and join it all back in again giving huge tubs 100mm each side to be exact but also keeping the rear to look original as I could and using original leafs and shocks saving money.

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So photos are up and working so can now put a little story together with pics as a book without pictures is boring, so I threw some rolling stuff back in her to get it out the back shed to do some repairs, the whole front was missing, wouldn't believe it a mate had a datto coupe wreck that I cut the front out to get the lower radiator support which made fit and welding in, and using a repo front radiator headlight section made it fit and welded in. Just trying to get it sort of a car again.

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