So once again displaying my lack of knowledge the handbrake in the ute is pretty damn avg. It has been doing a few motorkhanas and has never worked properly. It does hold the ute (just) when parked on a slope but I want to get it to lock the rears when needing to do a handbrake turn. At the moment it does bugger all. I have adjusted the handbrake cable countless times and it it still rubbish. I know a hydraulic HB would be gold but seems like overkill for a 700kg ute! :)

Is there a process of elimination I can use to try and get the thing to lock the rears nicely?

My vote is for the blue in Pic 1.

My 2 cents....

the 56A will work but wont last. Same for the H150. H165 at least.

The reason for the swap is that the standard B110/B120 sway bar is 17mm thick. The B210(120Y) is 20mm thick. Doesn't sound like much but the extra 3mm offers a BIG increase in stiffness.

It can also improve cornering without fitting stiffer, rougher riding springs. Sways bars only work during cornering, not on straights.

Thought this may be useful for people who are new to 1200's and are considering upgrading thier original 1200 swaybay to the 120Y swaybar. I'm no mechanic but thought I'd have a crack at it. This is a good and relatively cheap upgrade. This may or may not be the correct way to do this but it worked for me and was pretty simple. Happy to take advice if it is wrong. All in all took me about 40mins to do.

1) Obtain a 120Y swaybar, including the 2 U brackets and the 2 bushes that fit the brackets. Now is a good time to replace the bushes with some urethane ones, up to you though.

2) Jack up the front end of the car and place on stands under the front x-member.

3) There are 4 12mm bolts holding the U brackets in (2 each). Remove all 4 and the bar will come away from the chassis. Keep the bolts.

4) The swaybar is also attached at each end with a 13mm nut which holds down a washer, a bush and then the bar. Remove the nut from each end. Keep the nut the buses and the washers. Pay attention to how much threaded section there is coming through the nut!!

5) You should now be able to wiggle the swaybar free and manouver it out from under the car.

6) Take your 'new' 120Y bar and ensure the 'dip' in the bar is down (it needs to be to clear the sump). Manouver it into place and reattach ONE end with the bar, the bush the washer and the nut. Tighten nut until it has some decent purchase on the thread, dont completely tighten.

7) If you attached the passenger side first now fit the bracket on the drivers side (or vise versa). Using either the bush and bracket that came from the 120Y(or your new bush) bolt the bracket in until tight.

8) This should now position the drivers side end of the bar pretty close to where it needs to be. To make life easier gently jack up the wheel under the lower control arm and you will beable to thread on the bar, the bush, the washer and again the nut. Tighten nut until it has taken a good amount of thread.

9) Reattach passenger side U bracket just like you did in step 7.

10) Lower car off of jack/stands so all 4 wheels are taking the weight of the car and tighten the end nuts until the same amount of thread is coming through the nut as there was before you started.

Bingo - Kick ass sway bar.

Try this....

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... le=60-Series_Transmission

Thanks Wards... appreciate your advice (and the opinions of others). Just to be clear I ordered the centre bore to fit the front hub. (I ended up measuring with a digital feeler gauge). Might as well do it while they are being drilled especially for me. Thanks again everyone.....

As has been mentioned here there is no 'hub ring' on the rear. The disk brake front on the ute (which im presuming is from a 120Y) is tapered from the hub to the mounting surface. Thanks for everyones input. Will post a pic in this thread once they arrive.

About to purchace my new wheels and they are being drilled specifically for the ute. I have the offset all sorted and obviously it's a 114.3 PCD. But... the centre bore. The current wheels have a 77mm centre hole which seems pretty big. I can actually see some space between the edge of the centre hole and the hub. Anyone have any idea what the "stock" centre bore is on the utes? Cheers.

I'm looking for some chrome B-pillar vents for my ute. A while back I recall that someone was making them? Looked like they were cut from sheet and chromed or polished? Any suggestions where?? cheers.