If you want to do it legally in perth...good luck.

The max increase in track is 25mm over standard width.

with stanza struts and lower control arms. (stanza springs) you get positive camber.

reducing the positive camber, to about zero, increases the front track.........15mm wider than the maximum increase allowed....ie the track ends up 40mm wider than standard. ie illegal.

and thats with wheels which have such a large offset, that they nearly rub against the strut!!!!

since it started with a jump start, it is unlikely to be the starter motor.

Take the battery to shop and get it tested.

If the battery is good, then that leaves the alternator.

If you were driving with your lights off, and no big stereo, then it probably is the alternator.
I found most dead batteries show up when trying to start the car.

"only when not under load..ie if you put the clutch in to change gear.. when accelerating theres no vibration... when coasting in gear theres no vibration.. only for a second when u let go of the accel pedal"

Hey phunks.....basic physics may work...but they need to apply to the problem...

The problem occurs when NOT under load...when the clutch is ENGAGED..

Phunks you may be onto something with the wheels...I spose when under load the "vibration zone" would be passed quite quickly and thus the vibration may be less obvious..I spose this could also explain why you may be right about the unis...

But with the unis...I understood you saying the angle is caused by axle wind up???..if this is your theory then I spose it can't be the unis...this time!!!! as the problem occurs under no load..

what about a loose flywheel??????
stuffed unis?

if it's when your coasting, it sounds like theres some slack somewhere, when you get on the gas the slack gets taken up.

If there is no vibration when under load at high speeds, why on earth do people think that its the angle?? the angle is still present when under load?

It sounds like it may be to do with the gerabox flywheel because your problem occurs when you change gears......

I disagree.

Aluminium (thats what you mean when you say alloy right?) has higher thermal conductivity, thus, the air, in the intake will heat up more. Stainless steel (also an alloy) has very low thermal conductivity, thus the air will remain cooler.

Aluminium is easier to work with as it is "softer", but depending on the grade, may be harder/impossible to weld.

As for mild steel, don't waste your time or the earths resources...mild steel for intakes is crap.

dattoman, if you reckon your webpage is slow loading...get a new internet provider..I hope you have yet to get broadband...Using broadband it seems to load fine..
and its not that crap.

the results seem very accurate, to within 4 HP, and within 500 RPM of actual engine...

Having too many variables can be a disadvantage as well, I mean, who the hell knows the taper ratio, or inlet track length, which length...the short radius, long or center etc.

looking at that sprintcar diff????, you could use any diff, even and IRS diff. and mod the axle covering???? so it would bolt onto the diff..Thus the nissan IRS LSD could be used...or even a diff out of a WRX..

in terms of fueling, especially at high RPM only, carbs will be fine.
I thought the combo mentioned gave 2.4 Litres????????

In terms of carb size, there is no point in going more than 2mm bigger in diameter than the intake valve. (my opinion...based on todays weather)