if you allow a steel to cool in air, is that not annealing?

As for the brazing.....I did say that I wasn't sure..I know that welding it, is likely to result in failure.

now about the steel properties.. annealed steel has a brinell hardness (tungsten ball) of about 177.

Steel which has been heat treated (like axle steel) has a brinell hardness of about 417.

In this example, the hardness also means a higher Ultimate Tensile Strength. (UTS)
Rough figures...annealed UTS 85,000 psi, Heat treated axle 194,000 psi.

Now, not going of any knowledge here...please correct me if i'm wrong...The gears in the diff are probably ORIGINALLY made to a similar strength and hardness as the axles?

By welding...no matter which type of welding is used...if allowed to air cool..you end up with the diff gears in an annealed state.

This is why I suggested that maybe brazing may be better as it is less likely to change the state of the steel. Although brazing maybe weak..I would use it, only to hold a washer in place. The washer is what would cause the diff to lock.

I know that there is a company out there, that fills the diff center with some kind of resin, which also prevents the steel from being annealed. This maybe the way to go?

Bring it on Daveman

welding a center changes the metals properties and thats why they break. they change state. you are basically annealing the metal. if it must be done...posibbly brazing the spider gears may be better. (I have not tried..so not 100% fact)

And like I've said a gozillion times. If you want to keep you drive train in one piece, allow a wheel to spin. this is the cheapest (not best) way. it gives the diff, gearbox, clutch a fighting chance.

Probably better of getting different seats!

If you have little experience welding, this is not the palce to start.

Welding cars is a bitch. The chances of creating holes is high. If there is any under body sealer, this will have to be removed because it burns (starts a fire.

If someone tells u welding car panles is easy, they probably don't understand the word
penetration and the word distortion.

Seriosly, get some other seats.

could it be a stuffed injector?? If one injector is not delivering the fuel in a similar fashion compared to the other injectors, I spose u could end up with a car like yours.

I'm not sure if the ca18 uses the oxy sensor under all conditions..if it does then my theory may be right. If one injector is buggered...the oxy sensor will see a lean condition. The cylinder running lean may detonate causing the timing to retard. More fuel(too much fuel in 3 cylinders) + less timing = bad running car = car not producing boost at low revs...

undo the hoses near the control valve and have a look inside. If there is any sign of brown or green crap, your core or control valve or hoses or all mentioned are blocked.
I know cos this happened in my car. The amount of crap I pulled out of the core was amazing.

Does anybody know where I can get some cheap aluminium to make a flywheel?
I live in WA? Please don't say scrap metal place (unless u know of one which gets large pieces) Buying new, seems like it would be quite expenssive??

your tap could be blocked and the heater element itself might be full of ####.
Your heater hose could be totally blocked as well.

If I had my time again.......I wouldn't bother.
The 20V has the water exits at the rear...makes it bloody difficult. The sump is a long way forward, making it impossible to fit standard swaybars.

The only RWD gearbox which bolts on..a T50 is rare..the reason they are rare is because they are piss weak. Because they are rare they are also expensive.
(Does it then follow..that they are expensive because they are pissweak???)

U can't get cheap replaceable uni joints...

Depending of which T50 you get..one has the starter motor on the exhaust side..Leaves bugger all room for an exhaust. all that heat wouldn't be doin the starter much good!

The link rod hits the gearbox...still sortin this out.

But apart from that..its piss easy .

The 16V is a different beast. It has the dizzy in the right spot, water outlets in the right spot. But still the other issues remain and why would you bother doin a conversion where you'll end up with 100KW anyway??????

The cost of most conversions probably ends up being the same amount..Get yourself a CA18DET. Start with 130KW. and a bleed..etc easily have 150KW..have a GB which actually lasts, Have less hassles with cooling...etc.

if anyone wants it...otherwise of to the tip.
the motor is running, it sparks..cant remember if it welds.I don't have any gas so i can't asertain its true condition.

and how kilometers would you do in a racing season?? 200?, 300?
is this engine going to last....say 10,000km before it needs a rebuild??
Pro 240c was probably thinkin somethin similar.