have u got the manual???

auxillary output - 1 select start button, 2 - press right arrow 3 -choose menu one, 4 use left and right arrow to modify parameter

if after doing step 2 nothing has happened...you may have (1) a version1 wolf hand controller or (2) a version 1 ecu..if so...I don't think they have any auxillary outputs. I have version 2 ecu, with version 1 handset and so I can't access the correct menu :(

Its also possible to do it using the laptop software, its easy enough to choose RPM activation but setting RPM value???

more likely too low??? as you corner, instead of gettin petrol your gettin air??

I haven't looked at a carb in years but it sounds like you need more petrol in the float chamber??

try cornering whith your clutch engaged and holding a constant throttle..if revs go up it's leaning out?? if revs drop its running rich???

from memory the wolf requires the CAS sensor to trigger at 60 deg BTDC. (more like 55???) so you may not need to do much adjusting.

the way to adjust the CAS position...set all ecu ignition values to 0. rotate CAS. Using timing light, ensure that spark is occuring at 0 degrees BTDC.

leave CAS in this position.. then start playin around with the timing.

IF YOUR GONNA BE USING OTHER PEOPLES TIMING...YOU BETTER MAKE SURE YOUR TIMING IS TRUE. ie 10 deg on wolf hand controller is actually 10 deg at crank.

I don't have a ca18 and it will also depend on the accuracy of your zero point...

if your mixtures are correct...AND THE ENGINE IS WARM...put enough advance so that the engine idles smoothly at what ever the standard idle rpm of a ca18 is. 900 RPM?????

anything between 8 to 17 degrees might work.

how about using the aux as a ground for the shift light.

then, rev the engine to the rpm you want the shift light to activate at..keep it there.

adjust the bar graph until your shift light lights up.

as for ignition timing, every engine is diff, with diff intercoolers, conditions of turbos, boost levels, fuel quantities etc.... you shouldn't use other peoples...witha turbo motor you should get the timing advance done on a dyno...

personally I reckon that they're too big. but I've never used one just done some research looking at compressor maps etc. can't remember at what RPM a subaru makes full boost..but lets say it's 2500 RPM.
its a 2 litre engine and more efficient than an a series...so its hard to imagine the turbo on an a series making much boost below 4500 RPM...of the top of my head...my calcs suggested full (7 -10 psi)boost at about 5500 RPM. with plenty of surge below that.

You must remember that the swift engine is more effient(ie flow more air) than an a12 and this probably helps make this turbo more viable on a swift.

you can make electricity using tidal, wind, nuclear solar. you don't need to burn fossil fuels.

However I reckon this cars a bit of a con...I mean how many runs could it do before recharging???

This car can do somethin like 60 kays before recharging but thats normal runnin, not doin the drag thing, so did he trailer the car home??

he beat a mustang, but the mustang could probably do 100 runs before needing more gas.

you won't be able to use the dizzy if you want proper multi spark. If you want to run waste spark it will work. For proper multi spark, the computer needs to know where TDC of cylinder 1 is. If you run it of a dizzy....the computer will know that a cylinder is at TDC...but which one????

For multi spark u need a tooth system. A wolf 3D for instance, requires that you have 5 teeth for a 4 cylinder engine. the computer knows where TDC of cylinder 1 is because you have 4 eveny spaced teeth to coincide with each TDC of each cylinder...and you have a 5th tooth, just after the first tooth of cylinder 1. you program in the firing order and hey presto!!!

I assume the EMS is the same. Easiest way may be to get a dizzy of a efi toyota. these have multi tooth gears inside the "dizzys" you then modify them to suit.

"If you are gonna force a motor with a standard CR, IT'S GOONA BREAK!!!!.
Try decomp shimming a motor, and see if it lasts longer"

aftermarket kits for standard engine do exist and don't seem to blow motors. So standard CR should be possible IF the boost could be kept low. But 14PSI is a bit much.

FUNDAMENTALLY the problem is the TUNE!!!!!!!!!!!!
No matter what turbos Mike uses, no matter what squish, or what PSI he is using, what rings he has, what pistons he has ....if the engine is running lean then changing all of the obove won't help him much.

imagine If you have air in your braking system, fitting : larger rotors, different pads, different tires, adjusting brake balance..........won't help!!! Bleeding the brakes will!!

"mainly promoted a mind set, a way to work through problems and try to understand em"


I spose that was point in a way..originally although I lacked the verbal elagance to say it! its why I got annoyed with you asking the questions.

You've learnt how to work through problems...and here you were/are asking questions which you should have some idea how to solve!!

As for dishing pistons (A14force) wouldn't this weaken the piston??? take a piston from an atmo car, dish it, boost the engine....sounds like trouble????

surely head shim savers or a copper head gasket would be the way to go. a copper gasket might cost
around $150 so its not that expensive????

I've got an article on making a knock indicator (zoom mag) costs about $50 to make plus cost of knock sensor. If your keen can send you a copy.