What's your compression first.

Yours is a 1400cc engine, I don't think they ever made it to the states, however several guys would put B-210 engines in 1200's

The formula I used on my fastest 1200 went something like this.

Stock 72 Pistons compared to 71 and earlier are about "Flat-Top"

A 71 or earlier Head had small cc heads and "Heart-Shaped" combustion chambers
[GM thinks the Vortec "swirl"is new, ha!]

A minimal head shave, about .008" or so.
.040" shims under the valves
a 4-Angle Valve Job

Result, 198# Compression using 71 head w/72 pistons.

Used the primary jets from a 1600 or 1800, I forget the #s
Ditto on the secondary's.

Cut the snorkel tube off to about 3" long.

Twisted the timing to somewhere near 25+ degrees, waaaay off scale.

End result, a little car that would roar like a Quadrajet on a 327 w/10-1
It would JUMP like a Camaro with a low-ratio gear.

1/4 mile times unknown, prolly low 15's or high 14's
On 93 Octane fuel.

It would eat most any stock v-8 sedan, till the 101mph top speed.

Gas mileage, 48mpg, highway speeds, no hypermileing tricks.
Worst mileage when whupping azz, 14mpg.

More than once I found myself sitting on the road side listening to the wind-up and POP of Blue Strobe Lights :D

Quote:
Nzdatman is correct, my bad for attempting to get my few neurons to fire so late.

Permatex No.1 is a hardening sealer according to GM service manual, good for Oil, Water/Coolant and Fuel sealing.

They suggest, water pump gaskets, thermostats, warped intake manifolds etc

It is a very good sealer and is brittle and will not cause a "Stuck" situation upon removal..

Permatex No. 2 is a "non-hardening" sealer, personally, the ONLY use for it I've found is to have it "hold" the gasket in place till the bolts grab.

For most applications, I find no need for a sealer when using good paper or cork on a "Machined" flat and clean surface, only grease.

YMMV on a rear end cover, honestly it's been so long, like over 10 yrs since I serviced my Locker in my 88 Chevy full size, I forget..

Your best idea on this situation is to IGNORE most of what I said, and listen to someone who's done one in this DECADE

Sorry, my Neurons are firing like an old Ford on a cold morning :)

Rusty Wrench

I forget if those had "grounded" relays or "hot-side" relays

Little matter, check your grounds, especially the ones below the batt4ery..

Look for wire chafing around the headlight buckets and anywhere else.

If you installed aftermarket lighting, the relays may be drawing too much current, forgive me for rambling, it's almost 4 am here, and I'm very late to bed.

Rusty Wrench

You make me sick [jealous] :)

I have ONE 1200 left, it's old and sickly, but it's still mine, so far.
[I had 2 cars stolen this year, well in 2011]

I cannot count the 1200's I've owned, as a wrench at a Datsun dealer, often a blown head gasket, bent fender, bad clutch made the owner say "It's worn out"

Then buy a crappy B-210, how sad.

Lucky YOU
Rusty Wrench

If not available, go to a "Mill Supply" Store and buy some brown paper gasket material, about 1/32" thick.

Lay cover on paper, draw outline and bolt circles.
An "arch" punch is handy for cutting bolt holes in gasket material, you can make one from a pipe nipple or SS tubing the correct size. Cut the bolt holes just a tiny bit too big.

Glue to Diff Cover with 3M Weatherstrip adhesive, place on flat surface for 24 hrs, use minimal amount of Gold RTV sealer on carrier side.

Duh, clean first with solvent like Acetone etc.

Rusty Wrench

My method is the same as valve covers..

Straighten the metal, remove debris, wire brush, clean with Acetone or thinner.

Use 3m Yellow Weatherstrip adhesive and a Cork Gasket.
Place on a flat surface and weigh it down for 24 hrs.

Grease the surface of the cork next to the block or heads.
I cannot remember any leaks from this method.

Cork is still used today in Electrical Power Plants in many areas holding back oil. Rubber tends to swell and move about in those applications.

Rusty Wrench

1200 / B-210 Carburetor Warping Issues

When these poor little zinc/pot metal units get rebuilt time after time, the bolts WARP the mating surfaces causing air-inleakage.

Remove all things sticking up, and using a piece of glass, or hone-block, get some 800grit or so Lapping Compound and do "Figure Eights" till the surfaces are smooth.

Before honing, lightly tap the parts to get them close.

Finish off with a HOT CAUSTIC bath, Clean HOT water, and rebuild.

BTW, the "Failed" carb rebuilds that entail white crud in the bottom of the float bowl can be attributed to calcium buildup.

To remove, use a High PH Caustic [Danger-Eye-Skin-pet-hazard]to melt out the crud. "Liquid Fire" is the best I've found, but Red-Devil Lye diluted in COLD WATER will work.

BTW, to dispose, dilute 20-1 in cold water and flush down the toilet.
It's the same stuff as Draino,
[except Draino has aluminum producing Hydrogen gas and is NOT what you want to use in the carb job.]

Rusty Wrench

A miss upon acceleration can be Lean Carb, but usually it's one of two issues.

Bad Capacitor
Too Close Clearance on Intake Valves.

If it's worse when cold, the Intake Valve adj is most likely.

Rusty Wrench

English to English Language Barrier.

US;
Heater Cock is the "Heater Control Valve"

So what in the world does this equal in English [Au] ?

Rusty Wrench

Where I live, there's a few B-210's sitting around with 5-speeds.

You have to mfg a tranny mount as the 5-sp is longer, prolly use the driveshaft input shaft too, I'm Not sure about that.

The position of the shifter is a bit rearward but not too bad, you can bend the shifter forward and cut a few inches off and it will work.

If you're wanting take-off power, use the 1200 axle, if MPG is the goal, swap for the B-210 axle w/13" rubbers. I dunno about the hangers and overall width.

Rusty Wrench