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IF High resistance = Hi Gauge Temps, here's a tip.

The Nut that holds the brass sensor in, tend to oxidize up, clean the nut and wire brush the seating area. Use Thomas & Betts Copr-Shield or something like LOCTITE C5-A Copper Based Anti-Seize.

BROKE ?
Get out the "Mill-Smooth" file and make some copper dust, mix with grease and there ya go.

BTW, T&B's Kopr-Shield is great for batter cables as it does not run, C5-A does tend to run a bit.
One application method for either on electrical, is on a CLEAN SURFACE, put a BB's worth on a rag and "burnish" [waxing like motion] into the accessible areas.

Rusty Wrench

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These A motors [pushrod] if ran with blown head gasket, poor oil condition etc, will cause the rockers to gall on the shaft.

Pretty simple to take apart and inspect.

IF you have a galled rocker, just remove the metal from the shaft, the rocker will usually give up the metal, and crocus cloth off the shaft.
You can file the most of it, but Do Not put file marks on the rocker shaft.

Rusty Wrench

80/90 or if you live in 100F environments, 90/140

Like everyone else said, bout 1-1/4 qt, till it runs out the overflow on the side or you can touch oil.

Warning, IF your synchro's are not Perfect, Do NOT use slippery additives
It will only make gear-speed-matching during shifts worse.

This company has some great products inc trans additives, but only if in pristine condition.

They started out making oil additive for Nitro Dragsters to prevent "Black Death" All of their products work "as-advertised" much like my beloved "CRC" company.

http://www.pro-blend.com/

Rusty Wrench