Yet again, a thousand internets be uopn you dd.

And no, the website isnt a nissan dealer. Its these guys

http://www.amayama.com/

I dunno if anyone remebers me looking for synchro baulk rings a while back? Well, Nissan Australia quoted me $130 AUD each, and 6 weeks lead time. I punched the part numbers into Amayama's web site, paid the paypal account and had them sitting on my table in 10 days time, for $31 AUD each and they arrived in the original nissan packaging.

Also - the quoted prices on those seals? $30 + delivery.

I am never buying genuine parts anywhere else, ever again.

So, I am chasing a new rear main seal and sump gasket for my 79 model 1200 ute.

First port of call, as always, is the mighty datsun1200.com wiki. Then I discovered this

SEAL, Rear
• 12279-18000 SEAL-OIL CRANKSHAFT REAR 1 A12 - $81.18
• 12279-18010 SEAL-OIL CRANKSHAFT REAR (NDK) 1 A12 0271- 2 12279-18000 NLA
• 12279-H1000 SEAL-OIL CRANKSHAFT REAR (NOK) 1 A12 0271- $81.18


Is there a reasonably simple way to decipher the part numbers listed to figure out which one I actually need? Because I order my parts through an amazingly awesome website that gets me original parts quicker and cheaper than anything in Australia, but I need to be 100% sure on the part numbers I quote.

DO NOT HEAT THE AIRCON LINES!!!!!!!!

The trick to it, is slowly slowly, and dont just grab and yank. The more area you can spread the force over, the less chance you have of causing a kink. so if you can use something with a good diameter, you should be fine

(I have done this using the outside of a full unopened beer can on the inside. Personally I would attempt any smaller turn radius without a brake line bender or similar)

^ what he said. All double valve springs will do is put extra pressure on the pushrods and cam.

If you really want to rev past 6K then valve float will be one of the least of your worries :D

Aw man. I was pretty psyched to be a part of this, and just found out that The Minister For War And Finance has booked in one of the loinspawns birthday parties on that day :(

Maybe next year (if it runs on sunday as well?)

That all depends on what you mean by "flat top" pistons. A12 pistons are pretty flat from stock (I dont think domed pistons work very well in a closed chamber head..)

The best way to raise compression would be to get the head faced, and use a standard head gasket (a thinner head gasket with bumped CR will not end well)

I doubt you would squeeze 100hp from an A12 with just CR, carb and exhaust. You would need a decent grind cam at the very least, and all you will end up with, is a grumpy #OOPS# of an engine that doesnt go as hard as an A15 anyway.

As for the lightened flywheel - that wont do a damn thing without getting the bottom end properly balanced with it fitted, and IMO the "competition" oil pump wont be worth it either, unless you are running "competition" spec clearances in the bottom end of the engine, and a similarly prepped rocker train.

IMO just take baby steps. Get the exhaust sorted first, then maybe a carb swap. Once you have got your head around tuning and making the most of that, THEN start thinking about an engine rebuild for compression etc.

This is the guy that was taken quite recently?

RIP.

I really hope to see the old girl restored to its former glory, but I seriously doubt you will get much change from $10K to get an old datto ute up to spec, and I really hope you arent planning on breaking even if you sell it further down the track. Your best bet would be to get a panel beater on side with the whole "memorial" angle, and maybe even offer some singage on the finished ute? You might even consider "sponsors" for other parts of the restoration.

Good luck with it either way, and make sure you put up a build thread if it goes ahead.

200??

I really hope you are talking farenheight O_o

I would def be looking at the spring bushes and trailing arm bushes mate. Particularly on the front of the diff at the left hand side. An axle tube distortion bad enough to cause that would probably be visible to the eye.

First thing you should do though, is get the back end up in the air with the weight off the wheels, and have a crack at seeing if you can get anything to move around (like checking for tie rod and castor wear in the front) Give the wheels a good wiggle in all axis, and any movement or "clacking" noises will help you get closer to the cause.

before you do ANYTHING go get your local radiator shop to test the temps before and after your radiator.

Quite a few years back I spent a month replacing everything in the cooling system for a B310.

Turned out to be a dodgy sender unit. Temp was actually fine.