I had the same issue, its the dirt buildup behind the bearing getting in the way and making it more difficult to pull out of the housing..
I used two pieces of wood (so as not to damage the casing) and levered it off.

Could you do me a favour and post the bearing and seal part numbers that came with your set ?

Thanks
Andy

Played around with jets this weekend and managed to get it pretty good. I suspect a large amount of beginners luck involved but it runs between 14 and 15:1 normally, 13:1 ish when accelerating hard and about 15.5-16 when cruising at about 110kmh.

This is on my 1527cc A15 with a camtech 621 cam and 10.8: CR.

I know that the Carb is the bottleneck, and i have some A14T carbs to put on it when i have time, but are there any easy mods which can be done to get more out of the stock Hitachi ?
remove choke butterfly and shaft ? i never use it ..
ram pipe?
i have a K&N filter already

I just plugged the figures into this calculator:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html
and got 8.44 CR using the above figures.

This is why i used the mazda flat top pistons when i did my rebuild, though it seems i ended up with too much CR....
Use the mazda pistons but machine off 1.5mm rather than 1mm and it should be about 10.5:1 CR

Fitted BP7ES plugs this morning , went for a 25km run and no dieseling.


Found some advice from Champion that says to move a grade cooler in plug for each point increase in compression.
So as i went from 8.9 CR to 10.8 and from grade 5 plug to grade 7 it all lines up.

Yes, its 95 RON

I think cooler plugs and rerouting the fuel to keep it cooler will help.

Then maybe some porting in the chamber will help reduce compression a little....

Engine pinged when i first tested it, then i retarded to about 5 degs and its ok except for when in 5th gear at around 3500 rpm.

Stage 2 of this project involves programmable ignition so i hope to be able to sort that out.

Also, it was running quite lean, then when i adjusted the mixture screw it got better, though i need to open out the jets a little to do the job properly i think.

yes, good idea

I can hear the swinging weight jumping around as the engine diesels.....

I checked this out and at the same time slackened off the throttle cable, this helped a bit.
Sometimes it diesels violently and for 10 seconds or so and sometimes hardly at all. I notice its much worse when engine is hotter.

If the engine shakes and moves the weight to open the secondary flap then this could be feeding back on itself to make a 'dieseling loop'....
Maybe an extra 'engine steady' bar would help...

If car is moving then i come to a stop it hardly does it, but if i let it idle then switch off then its worse.
I'm using BP5ES plugs now, ill try and get hold of some BP6ES and try them, also re-route my fuel line to keep it cooler maybe the fuel is hot and evaporating in the carb .

Be another 2 weeks though before i can get back to see it....

Engine idling, then disconnect anti-dieseling valve, engine still runs but very roughly and AF ratio meter shows off the chart lean...

when i switched off the engine, it dieseled for a few seconds then gave a puff of smoke out of the air filter...

Idle set to about 800, but it sounds like its about to stall at any minute

Could it be something to do with the float height setting in the carb ? ive not changed it from before when i had no problem, but i have put new engine mounts on which may have changed the angle of the engine a little...

Hi and welcome to the site, I have an A15 in my Sprite,
First thing to look at is the tech Wiki on Nissan A series engines...

But there are (by my understanding) three possibilities, old type, pre 74 engine with the dizzy at the front , newer type with the dizzy further back just next to spark plug No.3 and the GX engine which has lots of desirable bits like bigger valves and better Cyl head as well as twin SU type carbs.

Yes its a H89 head with a 1.2mm gasket.
Pistons have a very slight dish but are flat under the majority of the squish area.

I will run that test on the anti -dieseling valve.

Idle is around 900 at the moment, engine not yet run in, i did a first run of about 40km this morning.

Tappets need adjusting though, they are much noisier than they used to be.