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   All Posts (areintjes)




Re: Need some help getting an A14 to run well
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Problem solved! Worn throttle shafts - fixed using some bearings from a hobby shop. Was hard to pin down because spraying carb cleaner near the area didn't do too much to the idle. However, now it runs like a dream! I guess the "new" carb wasn't so new after all.

Thanks for the help guys.

Posted on: 2013/3/21 0:42
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Re: Need some help getting an A14 to run well
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With further research, it appears the engine is an FU engine (round intake ports.) Could it be that this carburetor doesn't work with the FU engine?

Posted on: 2013/3/19 13:56
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Re: Need some help getting an A14 to run well
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Makes sense. I'm a student on a very limited budget so I'll keep my eyes open for a working carb to try swapping on.

Posted on: 2013/3/19 12:48
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Re: Need some help getting an A14 to run well
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Ok. I'm almost positive it's not an internal leak in the carb, as almost everything is new. I just replaced the intake manifold/exhaust manifold gasket and valve cover gasket, so I don't think those are it either. As far as hoses missing, it's very possible because the engine is swapped into another car. The only hose connected to anything is the line from the vacuum advance to the carb and I'm pretty sure it isn't leaking. No smog stuff, etc but all the unused ports on the intake manifold are plugged and aren't leaking. I'm not sure where to look now. Would pictures of this help?

Posted on: 2013/3/19 3:23
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Need some help getting an A14 to run well
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Hey guys,

I'm stumped. A14 with a Weber 32/36 carb starts and runs good initially when cold, but starts to run terribly when hot. The engine has great compression, and was recently rebuilt. When hot, the car won't idle unless I turn in the idle speed screw quite a bit, and even then it's very rough. Seems that no matter what I play with, I don't get any improvement.

So far I have:

-set timing to factory specs (and tried advancing it slightly)
-adjusted valve clearances
-cleaned carburetor, adjusted floats to spec, and replaced jets, needle valve, gaskets, etc.
-eliminated all known vacuum leaks (haven't found any by spraying almost everything with starting fluid)
-replaced spark plugs, wires and such (old spark plugs looked normal)
-checked fuel pressure - it was around 3 psi
-fiddled with the idle mixture screw on the carb but not with different jets

I'm stuck and need some ideas. This car has never run right since I've owned it so I don't have any reference points to go off. Thanks for your help

Posted on: 2013/3/19 2:40
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Re: Easy A14 question
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No idea about the engine's history - I bought it with the car. The pictures just from the tech section so Im not sure whose it is.

Posted on: 2013/3/16 14:13
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Re: Easy A14 question
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Much thanks

Posted on: 2013/3/16 2:58
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Easy A14 question
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Working on a car with an A14 swapped into it and had a quick question. What is the pipe in the picture? (stolen from tech section, see attachment) Seems the front one is hooked up to coolant lines, but the back one is just sawed off. I reached my finger in as far as I could and didn't feel anything. The engine runs (not super well) and doesn't leak any fluids.

Does this need to be blocked off? Right now I'm just trying to sort out some vacuum leaks so I wanted to make sure it wasn't contributing. Thanks for the help!

Attach file:



jpg  engine.jpg (107.89 KB)
16449_5143d830dadc8.jpg 548X697 px

Posted on: 2013/3/16 2:27
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Re: A14 stalls upon stopping
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Ok will do. Perhaps a dumb question, but someone at a shop I stopped by mentioned the timing should be set by ear since Im at an altitude of about 5000 ft. Not sure if that's true...but in what other adjustments should altitude be taken into consideration?

Posted on: 2012/5/28 7:45
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Re: A14 stalls upon stopping
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Quote:

jmac wrote:
check the float level in the carb too. if it's considerably high or low, when fuel sloshes forward under brakes it can either let too much in (if set too high) since it'll 'think' there's less in there as the float isn't pushed as hard upward if fuel is sloshing forward. Alternately, if it's too low, it can uncover a jet or emulsion hole or similar to the point it runs rough enough to stall (much easier to stall since throttle position is at idle and rpm is at its lowest.


This idea had crossed my mind. It would make sense, as if I really gradually stop, or stop from a low speed, it doesn't stall out as easy. I've checked float levels a number of times on motorcycles, but I'm not very familiar with this carb. Any quick way to do this? (I should probably check the forums before asking..)

Posted on: 2012/5/28 6:48
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