Does anyone know the correct Datsun/Nissan part number for a new clutch fork dust boot cover that will fit the 63A tranny out of a 1978 B210?
They are probably interchangeable with other Datsun/Nissan tranny boots, but not sure without having the correct part number.

Cheers
Roger

I never realized there was such a model.
Never had them in North America. The closest to it in North America was the B210 that came out in 1974 that replaced the B110 (1200 models). A lot of people bought those cars as they were very popular.
BTW, I had a 1975 2 door coupe with the A14, 4 speed. My wife had a 1976 4 door B210 with the A14 and 4 speed as well. Those cars ran with very little maintenance and were not very rust prone (at least not in my area), which was amazing compared to the early Honda and Toyota models.
Those were days of the "basic" cars. No power anything.

While taking the 1200 coupe out for a "Sunday" drive, a couple of guys pull me over and ask me if the car was a 240Z.
I told them it was it's little brother. It was obvious they have no clue as they were looking for directions to get to the beach. They looked a little under the influence to me.

Somehow I don't think that car has an A-series engine in it.

No I haven't, but I would surely make some space for it in my shop.

The kit finally arrived, and yes it will work on the 1200 (B110) model without any modifications whatsoever. It uses the same rod diameter and locking nut thread sizes. I have included the instruction sheet that they provided for installations on the 510, 610, 710, and B210 models. These instructions can also be used for the B110. BTW, the steel measuring gauge dimension is 57.5mm. If your kit was supplied without the gauge, you can use a set of calipers instead to measure the distance between the large washers to set the correct preload on the bushing assembly.

BTW,there is a slight modification that is required. It's very simple. The large washer that fits behind the front bushing (against the tension rod bracket welded to the car) is just a bit too small for the kit's plastic piece. A simple fix is to remove that washer (it's spot welded at 2 places, very easy to remove) and replace it with one from a 510 or B210. If you don't want to change the stock washer and have access to a lathe, turn the plastic OD of 41 mm down to 37.5 mm and it will fit nicely against the stock 1200 washer. Attached is a picture showing the complete setup on the bench. Keep in mind that on the picture, the car bracket would be located between the two larger washers in the middle of the assembly.

Attached is a photo after the kit is installed. All what is left is to fit the rubber boot over the front part of the assembly.

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Well, after a lot of troubleshooting on the wiring, I did not find any faults.
So, I looked at the ignition switch again. I discovered that the top plastic rotating plate on the switch mechanism was out of synch with the bottom copper plate. I accidentally stumbled across this when I turned it to the START position and it continued to click further clockwise instead of stopping. That was totally unexpected. I reinstalled the switch and sure enough, it worked. There must be a broken stop tab at the end of the START rotation. Anyway, I am not able to find a new 4-spade switch as they are no longer available. Instead, I found a 5-spade switch that will fit inside the key holder. All what is required is to make a short wiring harness between the new switch and the 4-terminal female connector at the end of the existing wiring harness and then route the new wires to the correct ignition terminals. The replacement 5 spade ignition is made by Standard Motor Products model US119.

I have a very strange problem with the ignition switch on my 1971 1200. The engine will no longer turn off when I turn the key to the off position. I've checked the wiring under the dash and everything seems to OK. I've even replaced the alternator, still didn't help. No changes to the wiring was done to cause this happen. It went from working to not working.
What is strange about this is that if I pull the main connector off the dash pod, the ignition works and the alternator charges properly. If I reconnect the dash pod, the ignition switch no longer turns the engine off. However, if I ground the green wire to any other ground source (see the photo), then the ignition switch works. There are no breaks in any of the circuit traces on the dash pod. If I remove the charge lamp, then the ignition switch works. If I put the tranny in reverse, the switch also works. If I turn the signal light on with the ignition in the off position, the engine is killed. If I pull the windshield washer motor switch, this also kills the engine when the switch is in the off position.
Looking at the fuse box, there's a 10A fuse circuit labelled as "meter/reverse/regulator" on the fuse panel cover. When I pull the fuse, it kills the engine when the switch is in the off position.
The alternator has two ground wires attached to the Earth terminal. Both have good connectivity.
I unwrapped part of the wiring loom between the 4 blade ignition switch and the fuse box. Everything checks out, no broken wires or intermittent short when pulling or wiggling the wiring loom.
I pulled the ignition switch apart and cleaned the terminal contacts. They look good. The switch has a good positive feel in all of its positions. The blade connectors are all solid and making good contact between the switch and the connector.
After all of this troubleshooting, I'm wondering if its still possible that the ignition switch is the source of the problem.
Unfortunately, I don't have a spare switch to try. 4 blades switches are no longer available from RockAuto. They only have the 5 blade switches which is quite a bit bigger than the 4 blade switch.

Any suggestions as what to try next?

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I guess there's only one way to find out and that is to order the kit and see if it will work. There can't be that much difference between the B110/1200 and the B210 setup. If it fits, it might be a good source for other 1200 owners to upgrade. If not, I can always sell to other Datsun owners in my area. I'll keep you posted.

So, it's confirmed then that the kit shown on www.thezstore.com will indeed work on the 1200.
I'll place the order and get my old hard rubber bushings replaced as they're all starting to split.
For the rear rubber bushing, will it be better to go with the stock rubber bushing or a harder rubber bushing that was listed in the old Datsun 1200 suspension modification book?