Thanks for the troubleshooting steps.
I will check it later today and confirm if its the IR.
If it is the voltage regulator, I doubt that they sell them as a separate part for the Hitachi, meaning another re-manufactured alternator might be the cheaper option to go with rather than bringing it to a shop, having it checked and then repaired and getting hosed for labor.

I just rechecked the wiring and they're all OK.
The dash light checks OK.
The rectifier checks OK.
12V at both T-connector wires.
It must be the internal regulator. Not sure how to check that on the bench.

I finally installed the IR alternator together with the correct jumper wires on the female end of the regulator harness as per the previously posted wiring diagrams.
I turned the ignition one, and the charge light came on.
I then started the engine, the charge light immediately went off and the voltage was between 13.7 and 14.0V.
After about 1 minute or so, the charge light flickered for a few seconds and then went off. However, when it went off, there was no longer any charging voltage. I double checked the connections and jumpers and everything is OK according to the posted diagrams for the IR alternator. There is no evidence of any electrical burn odor in the alternator or any warm/hot wires between the alternator and the battery. I'm wondering if some diodes could have failed as this is a re-manufactured alternator that may have been defective right from the get-go.

I agree that the splicing and soldering will provide for a better connection instead of the jumper wires.
It never crossed my mind to increase the size of the wire between the battery and the alternator as part of the conversion.
Thanks so much for all the comments and feedback regarding this conversion.
I'm anxious to see how much steadier the voltage is going to be in comparison to the stock setup, which was horrendous especially with EFI considering the crazy voltage spikes that could have damaged my injectors.
Thanks again.
Roger

This is perfect. It confirms the required wiring for my setup. i don't need any sparks under my hood.
In your opinion, does the internal regulator alternator provide better voltage control than the old stock external regulator units? I just hate getting 16 to 20v random spikes on my EFI setup as it seriously affects the injector pulse widths and corresponding AFR fluctuations.

Thanks for helping out, it's been very much appreciated.
Long live the Datsuns and their owners.
Cheers

The ACDelco is a rebuilt Hitachi that is specific to the Nissan 210/310.
I found this wiring diagram that appears to exactly match my existing external regulator alternator wiring setup.
This diagram doesn't show the reversing of the wires on the T-connector, but probably achieves the same results by using two jumper wires on the female end of the 6 blade harness connector.

Attach file:

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  6alternator_ir.jpg (115.30 KB)

I have a white/black wire on the stem part of the "T" 2 pin plug on the back of the alternator and a yellow wire on the "T" part of the plug. The white/black is probably the "F" alternator terminal with the yellow connected to the "N" terminal.
So, from what you're saying is that I should not have to jump any wires on the 6-pin wiring harness at the external regulator.

I need confirmation on the Tech Wiki section regarding the alternator conversion from external to internal voltage regulator.
I have a 19171 B110 (1200 coupe) with the old style 35 amp alternator with the external regulator that is causing way too many voltage spikes that affects my EFI injection pulse widths. The attached wiring diagram was taken from the Tech Wiki section and shows the wiring conversion for the B110 (smaller portion of the wiring diagram on the left hand side of the attachment.
The smaller diagram shows a red dashed line coming off the "S" lead off the alternator with a note "factory B110 harness". Is that referring to the factory "T" 2 wire harness or does this wire connect to another wire inside the 6-wire engine regulator harness?
I really don't want to risk burning up my electrical system by making a wrong assumption.
BTW, I will be using a 50 amp alternator, AC Delco PN 334-1578.

Cheers
Roger

Attach file:

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  B110 Alternator Conversion to IR.jpg (133.94 KB)

my email is:
rgtherrien@shaw.ca

Can you send a picture of the car?
Roger in Kelowna