well I finally finish my new motor taken 20 months to build ,new head ,cam,etc and a lot off work gone in it .the last one was shag hoping more hp less boost

come on -
nissan r32 r34

do you do the r series struts

It looks good d I read the article he had to cut the valves down a lot so you have to run caps to which I had to on my last head, if you run a heavy valve spring it tens to start flaring the stem because you cut the hardness off. this time I brought the biggest a/series racing valves I could get so I didn't have those problems that I had before. it a shame someone didn't make a billet head for our motors

only running 32ex 38in all kameari gear after speed,i tried to get valves made in the US they weren't interested it wasn't a chev/ford. like to know how he fitted 42 in they must be hitting what hp was he getting

it was the head that cracked, 78 mm bore and has a slight crack between 3/4 which was xray and ok.i run 28lb boost which doesn't help ca18 rods and ARP bolts all the way through the motor. I'am trying to bring the boost down for the same hp 270wheel I'll see what I get first with this new set up.

yeah I,am talking about 360/740hp-410/900hp very fussy engine builder my block has been freshen up with some new ideas from a different engine builder, etc, blue printed and now he,s building a new head ,the last one got to hot an cracked on the dino to lean on back two cylinders now putting in EGT in the exhaust to get all cylinders the right tune . I've always had trouble on the back two.

he use to building sprintcar motors first a/15

there is a screen /mesh plate with two holes in it, the bottom of the block , my engine builder left it out he said he couldn't see what it was for so he toss it ,is it a purpose

thanks ddgonzal