This feller has been driving this ute for over 20 years. He fills the drivers seat like you couldn't believe but he loves it.

Quote:
Quote:If the manifold that you have is a Lynx D1000 then I have bad news for you.
This manifold does not have a PCV provision because the engine that it was specifically designed for, the A10, did not use a PCV system.

Worse, it was designed for the earlier round port configuration & will not fit & work on an oval port A14 head. [Nor a round port A14 head either]

Click on image for full size picture.

Quote:Why, did you think Dundee1000 was telling fibs?
The A15 head will work directly on any of the 1974 & later engines. These can be readily identified by the distributor that is under the No. 3 spark plug.

The earlier A12/1200 engines with a distributor under No. 1 spark plug will require a mod to the head before the later heads can be used on them.

You will need the manifold that matches the manifold mounting stud pattern & the port shape.
Round port A12 inlet manifolds will not fit at all.
Round port A14 'economy' model manifolds will fit but the round port manifold negates the benifit of the oval port head.
Oval port manifolds will fit & work as intended.

The funny little 2 door on You tube [post #25] looks to simply have the rear portion of a 4 door roof on it ['C' pillar]

I think that the standard 2 door body desperately needs a top chop as it is way out of proportion.
The 4 door seems to address this & even though it is the same height, it doesn't look so 'top hat'

I owned & drove a 1968 4 door for well over a decade & loved it, but I always wanted a coupe as I regard this as the premium model in the line.
Now that I have one, I know I made the right choice.

KB10, the car you always wanted.

Quote:Correct, three pushrod lengths

Block 'A'
A10 with 59mm stroke. This is the shortest block with the shortest pushrods

Block group 'B'
1200, A12[from 1974], A12A, A13[1980-'82] These all had a 70mm stroke & use the middle length pushrod.

Block group 'C'
A13[US model, 1974 only] A14, A15. These used the 77mm stroke [A13 & A14] & the 82mm stroke [A15] but all shared the same basic block dimensions.
These all use the longest pushrods.

The Hilborn system is little more than a controlled fuel leak that is idealy suited to all out competition engines, but is very hard to set up for street driving & very few ever get it right.

Ddgonzal is right, sourcing one from an existing car is the way to go but why not consider an electronic system.
They have a great deal to offer, not least of which is tunability. This is why the entire motor industry has gone this way, ... tunability for emmisions purposes, for economy, & for all out power.

A mechanical system does not offer the ease & simplicity of the electronic injection & they can be used in so many different configurations.
Fuel only. [like mechanical]
Fuel & spark.
Full everything [like new cars]

Think about it before doing anything.

Good one Andy. This will be a picture to show your kids when they get into the music.

I ran what was called a "light sports grind" cam in my GX many years ago & it idled just fine at about 850rpm. Performance was excellent for what was a commuter & a family hack with both good performance when I wanted it, & great economy when I drove it like an old fart. [which is what I am now.]
The original 1200 GX cam was not very 'hot' & a similar profile will work well in any GX configured engine.

OK, the A10 flywheel. It will bolt right up to the later cranks but they originally used a smaller diameter clutch with a smaller bolt circle doameter & even smaller bolts to hold them on.

Additionally they had a groove machined around the edge of the clutch disc which will lie underneath the larger/later clutches.

To use the A10 flywheel on a later engine it will be necessary to machine the whole face of the flywheel down to the depth of the groove & to redrill it so as to accept the later clutch.
While you are at it tou can clean up the back of the flywheel too.

This is mine. I had it modified back in the early 80's & it weighs about 13 Lbs. I used it in my GX powered 1000 sedan for many years. [3.5mm or 0.140" overbored] It will likely end up behind the A13 for my KB10 after a good clean up, so yes, I still have it.

This is obviously the clutch side. Notice the ring of six smaller holes just outside the clutch disc marking. These originally were for the bolts that held the A10 clutch cover in place.

As always, click on image for a bigger picture.

















This is the engine block side of the flywheel.
Again, you can see the ring of smaller diameter bolt holes along with the fact that it has been machined.



















As can be seen, it doesn't take up a lot of room in the bellhousing.
One thing to note is the fact that the clutch will now sit a bit further forward & it may be necessary to use either the longer version of the release bearing carrier, or [as I did] use a spacer on the clutch cable adjustment to help bring the clutch fork far enough forward to gain satisfactory clutch function.
It's all too easy.

Congratulations on your growing family, he looks to be a fine young feller.

My three are grown now & I am looking forward to being a grandfather [anytime soon would be good kids] but when they were young was the best years of my life as no parent could have wished for better young'uns.

Hopefully they will be the best of yours too.

Since ALL A series cams are interchangeable within all A series blocks they ALL have this oil gallery drilling along their length.

OK, yes I know that an A10 or 1200 cam in a 1974 or later block will be missing the distributor drive gear but the later cam will work in the earlier block, just remove the fuel pump & blank off the hole.