A single downdraught Webber may well be a good thing, but if you are going to use an original manifold, just be aware that the port size was optimised for the airflow that the original carb allowed & for the air demands of a stock engine in normal use.

If this is to be a pep'ed up grocery getter, you will likely be very happy with it as the manifold is exhaust heated, but it will not be a 10 second car.
Before you declare the conversion a complete success, or a dud, it will be a good idea to get it tuned with the aid of an exhaust sniffer, perhaps even on a dyno, to ensure that it is not running rich or lean at various rev & load conditions. If you can tune the carb properly, it will be a good deal.
Chris

If it is possible to buy a 1200GX or 1400GX setup complete, you will be on a winner. It might be an advantage to use the two carbs from the L series SSS engines [1600 or 180B] The beauty of these Variable Venturi designs is that the venturi size is adjusted according to engine need & for regular street driving, they are great.

DO NOT fall for the so called "performance improving" trick of removing the damper pistons & rods. These are the screw in caps at the top of the carb. These dampers serve a VERY important purpose & their removal only screws things up. Just make sure that they have the correct measure of the right oil & everything will be sweet.

This setup will not be as impressive as a brace of DelOrto's or Webbers, but for spirrited driving pleasure in a road car, they are a very good choice.
Chris

Sedans are divided into two basic groups that are separated by the tail light size.
The better looking one , in my view, was the earlier, shorter one.
Heres the breakdown.
Smaller tail light with dome blinker = '67... 2 doors only. [4 door not invented yet.]
Smaller tail light with short spear = '68... 2 & 4 door.

Wide tail light with short spear = '69... 2 & 4 door.
Wide tail light with long spear = '70... 2 & 4 door.

In my view, the '68 had the best grille & the 4 door was the better looking of the sedans, so be proud of your car. They are great little movers. My 4 door is a '68 model & it has served me well for over 2 decades, but will now be "converted to components" & the 1200GX & 5 speed box from it will go into my 1000 coupe.
Chris
P.S. The serial number range for the '68 4 door sedan is from B10 - 80003 [from Oct. '67] to B10 - 200,000 [to Sept. '68]

Lobster
Good pics, great gallery. I loved the Honda S800 coupe, it's a real treasure. The earlier S600 rev'd like a F1 engine & had the performance of a pushbike, but they looked GREAT.
The 3-71[?] wheezer on the Datsun "A"series in the Morris Minor is good. It would probably work better with a Wade or Paxton blower, but it would not look as impressive.
Hmmm, i have a spare 6-71 & a crook bonnet for a Datsun 1000, i wonder if.....

Damn you Lobster, you give a bloke unafordable ideas, but thanks for the pics.
Chris

Did I mention that DATSUNS are nice.
No?
Datsuns are nice. Shall we talk about our nice Datsuns?
Chris
P.S.
The hemi SOUNDED great too.

Awwww, shucks, FM1200, now you gone & made me blush.

Thanks for the support. It doesn't take much to realise that i tend to lean to the conservative side,.... a lot, but my motors start first time, hot or cold, run smooth, pull strong, & return good mileage [well, good enough]. They go fast enough to scare the crap out of me, & live long enough to just plumb wear out.

Thats what i shoot for, & full blown screamers don't make the grade for me. I can't afford all the broken parts anyway.

Thanks again
Chris

I have run Koni's for decades & they will outlive the car. The adjustable feature means that as they lose performance due to wear, you can simply adjust them up a little to compensate. They can also be adjusted for cruising or for competition. A little bit dear, but bloody good value.

I used a set on my work Falcons. I used the one set on three diferent cars, swaping them onto each successive new one. I finally let them go when we got a car that they didn't fit. They had near to 300,000k on them & would be ready for a rebuild within another 50,000k.
I will be using the Koni's that i bought about 8 years ago on my KB10.
Chris

The wheelstand in the movie was in the script, presumably to give the audience a bit of a thrill. Could the charger really do it? Probably, but it would need the traction & unless it was set up for it, wheelspin would be the likely outcome, so i have assumed the "stand" was a stunt.

I have no reservations in accepting that the Charger could easily be a genuine 10sec [or better] car, but the Supra? Naaaa, maybee, if it was sucking on enough laughing gas, on it's best day, but i would have to regarded it as having a grenade motor. You know, i think it would have the performance & life expectancy of one.

Those old 50's era Chrysler blocks didn't reach the upper limits of structural integrity untill they started pushing 2,000 hp, so the street version in the movie should live just about forever. It could easily be redlined as low as 6'000rpm, but the high tech jobs need rev limits higher than i can count.
That hemi thing would develop enough torque to drag Melbourne over to Adelade. I really like torque. It might be a 54 year old design, but it STILL sets the benchmark for others to measure up to.

Anyway, thats enough distraction for now, so i will drop it & try to stick to Datsun stuff.
Chris

I seees it, but i doan beeleeeve it.
Now this bloke has got style. That it actually fits has got me floored. I wonder how hard it would be to wheelstand it,....in reverse.
Chris

Quinn
You are most likely right. "Replacement" gaskets are likely to be for the 76mm bore size & will fit around a 77.5mm bore. [third oversize] This will work fine.

The reason i mentioned the A12 gasket is because he will be facing a potential compression ratio problem, & if a genuine 73mm [+ oversize] gasket was available, it just might give that extra whisker of help in this department. Every little bit counts.

The monotorque gaskets are good, but i still retorque, & do it again periodicly with molly lubed bolts, as alloy heads have a habit of squashing gaskets a little when they get hot, then relaxing the pressure a little when cold. After a while, the gasket seems to lose some of it's resiliance & the tension on the bolts is diminished. I retorque periodicly because it's easier & cheaper than replacing head gaskets.
Chris