Many many years ago a mate at work had a call from his elderly mother.
She rang to say that she had filled the engine in her Mini with water. She had experienced a 'senior moment' & mistaken the cap on the rocker cover for the radiator cap but realised her mistake when the water reached the rocker arms, what should she do?

The finished up for the day & went home, drained the engine, filled it with light oil & some kero, then started it & let it idle for a bit, then drained it again.

After refilling it with clean oil, & changing the filter for the second time that afternoon, he went for a longish low speed drive. Any remaining water was heated by the engine & the vapour was drawn off by the PCV system.
The car served faithfully for another five years when it was eventually traded on a newer model.

At least she realised the error & took immediate steps to fix the problem without causing any more harm.

Quote:Generally speaking, a fast charge involves fairly high voltages & even higher current flows which produces a great deal of heat in the battery.

If the heat level rises too high, damage to the battery will result & high capacity batteries will suck up a lot of current if the charge was very low to begin with.

I had not heard of these 'quick charge' batteries before & I would imagine that they would show up in smaller items, like power tools, before they become available to the automotive market & I remain sceptical untill I see one in the flesh.

I look forward to seeing a practical, affordable & effective electric car but unfortunately, up untill now at least, they have remained little more than a novelty.

P.S. Henry Ford purchased a total of four Detroit Electric cars over the years for his wife Clara, each one replacing its predecessor.
The last one survives in the Henry Ford museum in the US.

Apparently Clara wasn't too fussed with the infernal combustion engined products that her husband produced.

My sons 120Y served him well for several years & as far as I can tell it's still going strong in the hands of another.

The 120Y is a bit of an ugly duckling in stock trim but can blossom into a beautiful Swan with some good wheels & a little lowering of the front to give it a bit of a 'rake' so as to produce some 'attitude' in its appearance.

In stock trim it returned very good mileage, & being a little larger & heavier than the 1200 it was roomier inside & rode a little better too.

For enthusiasts, the engine bay is cavernous enough to accommodate a Holden V8 without firewall or radiator support panel surgery & one such legally registered example turned up at the Datsun Nationals in Goulburn a few years back.

The 120Y was a great car whose reputation has been tarnished by monumental tossers who wouldn't know a good car if it ran over them.

The new A13 contains some improved active ingredients that involve the inclusion of T-i-t-a-n-i-u-m, plus
F-o-r-g-e-d aluminium & steel b-i-l-l-e-t internal components along with a few other secret ingredients.
Strong medicine this one.

Now I gotta build my first A13 with the 'H' beam rods & cast flat tops as a 'touring' engine. [Yeah, right.]

Quote:

That hasn't been my experience.
Datsun supplied 76mm pistons from its race parts catalogue to allow the 1200 engines to run to the limit in the 1300cc classes. The factory race manual makes no real reference to special testing of the bores before boring for these pistons, so they must have been confidant that these engines have plenty of meat in the cylinders.

My own engine was bored to 76mm back in the early 80's & run till it plain wore out, so I bored it to 76.5mm & ran it for many years in that form.

A local fellow wanted an A14 stroker crank in his 1200 engine which requires the use of A15 pistons, however the only available set that was available for a very low price was at the max oversize [1.5mm] which meant that the 1200 block was bored straight out to 77.5mm & this engine took a flogging for quite a while. It currently is held in storage & is in 100% serviceable condition.

No bore testing has been done on any 1200 engine that has been punched out to 76mm that I have been personally involved with & I have seen more than a few over the last 30 years.
None have suffered from cylinder wall problems apart from one that developed a water leak when the rod went through the side of the bore.

In my experience the 1200 most certainly does not have thinner cylinder walls than any other of the 'A' series engines

I have just read all 73 posts & the one thing that seems to have been overlooked, or at least not given a lot of weight is the two critical measurements.

B10 crossmember to under bonnet height.
Proposed engines sump [where it sits above the crossmember] to highest point of engine dimension.

The B10 has the lowest hood line of the four 'B' series cars & therefore the tightest vertical clearance.
The OHC & DOHC engines are usually taller than the A series & we know that the stock air filter housing of a 1200 engine will rub under the bonnet of a B10, so there may be a bit more work than anticipated if it becomes necessary to make custom induction manifolding on a DOHC engine just to allow the bonnet to close.

I have been truly fortunate to have been aware of Lemonhead's A-series-on-steroids as well as his acquisition of the rare & desirable Datsunsport [AKA Nissansport/Nismo] race cylinder head & have been waiting with bated breath for news of further developments.

If this engine can be developed to run properly with the DOHC head it will be yet another legendary A series powerplant in the illustrious career of this seemingly humble economy engine.
I wish you every success Gary.

I too have a recent development of the A13 kind that will help to continue my goal of building a KB10 from the rarest & most desirable factory components. It has been my holy grail A series & until recently had been regarded as completely unobtainable.
Patience is a virtue.

For me, the A series engine in a B10 chassis has more to offer than I will ever need.

Quote:Lordy Ben, it's been a while since I have seen your car & I am always impressed.
[click on the image for a full size view]

I can see the genuine GX mirrors out there, the deluxe console with optional [facelift?] clock, the factory option steering wheel with GX horn button, the dogleg 5 speed, the AM/FM radio, & the rare 10,000rpm 'competition' tach.

I know that your gem has much more to show & anyone who has seen this car will know that it is a Tour de Force of rare & desirable factory components that has taken years to accumulate.

This has to be one of the better regularly driven 1200 sedans in Australia.

What's next, a double hump facelift model Excellent dash assembly with GX instrumentation?

EDIT
OH yeah, for what it's worth, this is my humble shifter.

Quote:All of the photos are at least five years old.

The inverted white coupe was in the South Gipsland area but i forget the name of the little village.

All of the others were in Cooma with the bulk of them in Flynns wrecking yard.
No idea how many of these cars exist today.

As usual, click on the image for a larger picture.

The rear axle assembly [which includes the diff] appears to be the original Borg Warner unit which would make this car an Australian assembled model.]
These were assembled from an incomplete kit of components that were manufactured in Japan which required a number of Australian manufactured components to complete it. The Borg Warner rear axle assembly was one of these.