I've got a bosch 60A alternator from a series 2 blubird and was wondering if anyone knew what wires go where to wire this up. I know this is internally regulated and think i know what goes to all but one of the connections.

In the back there is a small bolt into the body of the alternator which would be earth. There is a large stud that would be +ve power out. There is a small round pin connector which i'm assuming is for the charge light, but i'm not sure what the spade connector is for.
Does what i've said seem correct? Is the spade connector just an ignition power in? Any help will be greatly appreicated as i'm planning to do the state rally championship round in Canberra this Saturday and need a bigger alternator to power my 130W driving lights + 100/140W headlights.

I don't think it would be a problem, but I though it had to exit rewards of the rearmost opening window. If it was just the door we could run the exhaust out the side before the rear axle on the coupes!

Sorry I can't be of much help but i've got an SR20de and plan to put it in one of my 1200 coupes. In NSW at least I think the SR20DET cannot be put into a 1200 as the capacity is too great for the original weight. While the turbo SR20 is no bigger in capacity the RTA uses a multiplication factor on the engines capacity if it is turbo charged. If you want a turbo 1200 use a CA18DET. Probably cheaper to buy and still plenty of power for a 1200.

Any way on the conversion I haven't measured anything yet but I just plan to bolt the engine and gearbox together lower them into place and modify the engine mounts on the crossmember to suit. Then a custom gearbox mount and tail shaft. Not sure about diff yet, but front struts can be from stanza with bigger brakes already on them. I have been told that the steering arm may foul on the sump but i'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

I've heard that a bosch alternator from a series 2 blubird fits and is 60 amp over the 1200s 35amp. Probably the same as the laser one. Anyway the series 2 bluebird i'm told will bolt straight on and the pulley will line up with the crankshaft pulley. Only thing is the wiring needs to be changed as I think the blubird alternator is internally regulated by any auto electrician should be able to do this easy.

I got 2 big 130 watt driving lights to put on my rally 1200 and will do this alternator conversion in a couple of weeks so I can run them!

thanks for all your suggestions i haven't had another chance to look at it yet but hopefully i'll get some time tonight or tommorrow. I'm thinking there is an air leak somewhere in the intake system and have a few things to check. One of the main things may be the carbies could have worn around the butterfly shaft and possibly leak air.

Has anyone ever heard of this happening? Has anyone ever had problem with their fuel pickup inside the tank?

just was wondering if any one had any ideas on how to solve the problem I'm having with my 1200 coupe rally car! It has an a12 running twin dellortoes, electronic ignition, electric fuel pump from a s2 blubird and running on Shell optimax fuel.

Symptoms:
it is pinging all through the rev range even with light load, running hot, missing slightly and lost a bit of power. When i pull the plugs out to check them they are clean. The tacho (aftermarket VDO) swings around past 10,000 when your probably only doing about 4-5,000 RPM and is very jumpy.

Other Info:
To me this would seem to be running lean. This happened at a rally so we first tried changing the fuel filter and spark plugs and finished the rally. This had no effect. At home we tried many things like:
-bypassed the fuel regulator.
-checked the fuel pressure was between 2-4psi while driving.
-cleaned and blew out main and secondary jets in carbies
- checked the float level
-checked the condition of the softmounts
-checked the tension on the manifold nuts
-checked the ignition timing(only at idle)
-checked the distributor advance weights and springs.
-tried a different distributor, leads, coil, ignition module.

all of the things we checked or tried seemed to be funtioning correctly but made no difference with the car. the only thing that changed was the taco seemed better after changing the ignition system.

If you've read this far, thanks for taking the time to read and any help or suggestions you can give to rectify this problem will be greatly appreiciated!

On a better note the little 1200 finished the rally in 7th outright out of 37 and we were the second 2 wheel drive behind a v8 commodore.

To see photos from the rally go to Mfoto under the heading Dell Clasic Stages view cars 000 to 19. We were car 12 a green and white 1200 coupe.

Yeah the 4X4's were sweep and recovery vehicles.
I ran up there, white 1200 near the bottom of the page with a green P-plate, it was great fun. Was only my second rally, having done the same one in Bathurst last year, we pushed the little 1200 hard and climed from our starting postion of 34th up to 16th by the end beating more than half the field. On the last day somtime we lost one of the rear shocks, ripped out of the floor and broke off at the bottom. This made it axle tramp out off all the rough corners, it was a real pain. That was our only major problem.

Check out the website AMSAG Southern Cross Rally Series

I run a CIG locker in my rally 1200 coupe, and while a LSD would be better in a rally car I much prefer a locker over an open diff. My rally car doesn't get driven on the road daily but i haven't found the locker dangerous. I think the dirvers of these cars CAN be dangerous. Not all but some! I have driven my rally car in the rain many times without any problems, understeer,oversteer, wheelspin ect. obviously trying to accelerate quickly from a dead stop will induce some wheel spin but this will happen with any diff. Drivers need to start driving to the conditions taking into account, road conditions as well as their own car plus other idiots on the road.

Thanks 731200 some helpful info you've included there!
Talking about diffs what type are you using? I was thinking of using a 1500 ute diff as dad and i measured one up a few years ago but never ended up needing it at the time. From memory it may have increase track width aprox. 20mm but all the leaf spring mounts seemed as though they would line up. The stud paturn on the axles would have to be changed but i think the diff would be strong enough as it's out of a commercial vehicle. Anyone know anything about a diff swap like this?

thanks dattodude, if you could post the s14 manual on your site it would be much appreiciated. I just tried to download it from datnet.org but an error kept occuring bout halfway through. If it'll take you too long to upload it I'll just try and download it again form datnet.org another time.

Pro-240c thanks for your reply, but I didn't think 1600 crossmembers would fit a 1200. I'll probably just modify the original 1200 crossmember to suit once I lower the engine in place to see how it needs to be modified. The other info on the front end sound pretty good!