maddatter1, I think you're on to something with the thermostat, but replace it, don't remove it from the equation too quickly! Smaller motors rely on the thermostat, especially with higher anti-freeze mixes. Next time you replace your thermostat, drill a small hole in the outer housing. For some odd reason this improves the thermostat life and prevents 'sticking'.

Thank You ddgonzal.
When I got the GX, I had the prop' shaft's yoke machined down and an output shaft bush made to accomodate this, and had the porpshaft balanced. I also replaced the universal joints after which there was NO vibration or abstract noise. All I hear when driving is that 'straight-cut gearbox' whine. However, my father informed me that that's almost a trademark of that era. =/ I'll have one more thorough listen next time I visit the dyno.

As for the automatic gearbox route, I am very pleased to hear your opinion! Although, I was under the impression that the 3N71B transmission was somewhat lighter and more compact than the L4N71. Is this true? Or should I have started looking for an L4N by now?

Recently discovered water in the fuel also shares these symptoms. Rich, rich, lean, rich, lean, lean ....dead.
Drained 5 liter into a clear bottle came back and saw a 3rd being water. Paid the station a visit and it turned out that other people have been suffering too for a week or two.

So I took my one buddy out for a drive today and he said my 56-series 'box is on its way out. Now he does work for a gearbox rebuilding center, but how could he know from driving with me? Are there telltales I could listen or feel for?

I was considering an automatic for a replacement to deal with the A15 a bit better (and because I read of a guy who got 17km/liter of fuel with an automatic), and I came across an article on swapping L4N71B gears and overdrive into the 3N71B on a 510 forum. Is this for real? And is it a good idea?

Or should I consider another automatic gearbox and just have an adaptor plate made?

I don't mind modifying the tunnel.

I know these are silly things to mention, but I noticed how quickly they can cause your temp. to shoot up, and even if they don't help you, they might count for advice...

1 - Check if your overflow hose is properly connected.
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2 - Electric fan's wire polarity.
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3 - Fan belt loose. This is an easy one to miss!
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4 - Antifreeze/water ratio weak (especially in conjuction with a disconnected overflow!)
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5 - I've also noted that a bigger radiator mounted to an unmodfied body also heats up a LOT quicker.

Something you could check into is a product to clean out the corrosion in your water system. Usually a small bottle added to your coolent. This helped me quite a bit by making 2 (almost unnoticible) leaks evident.

Link for some advice/direction if it is the head gasket:
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... tle=Changing_Head_Gasket.

I doubt I can tighten them more than the last guy...wish I took a pic of the 2mm groove running along the inside of the drum. But the real problem was in fact not the drums as they were quite easy to find, and as I recall, more than adequate for a car this size with the right shoes. The real problem is actually the backing-plates. The one in the is bent inwards due to hard braking on finished (and over-tightened) shoes to the point where everything was jammed. Finding those backing-plates are a mission around here, so I sent them to my engineer still on the sideshafts to see what he can do with them and get me some new bearings fitted while he's at it. If all else fails, I have 2 brand new R31 drum-in-discs that never made it to my other Lady.

Thanks Guys. I spoke to an engineer buddy and he said he'll think of something if I do want to go to discs someday. Maintenance fore now I guess... *sigh*

I don't particularly need the discs, but finding the drums and backing plates for my GX are a mission. Former owner was one of those people that drove the car 'til everything fell off and now that the car's arse is in the air, I was consider discs as an easy alternative to finding the original parts.

On the other hand, is there another source I could consider for rear brakes? Don't the 1400 Bakkie's brakes also work?

Working on the pics.

I don't particularly need the discs, but finding the drums and backing plates for my GX are a mission. Former owner was one of those people that drove the car 'til everything fell off and now that the car's arse is in the air, I was consider discs as an easy alternative to finding the original parts.

On the other hand, is there another source I could consider for rear brakes? Don't the 1400 Bakkie's brakes also work?

I own an '88 R31 SGLi (RB30E) that has the drum-in-disc at the rear
. unfamilia, is this the most straight forward route?