Hey Guys, just out of curiosity, what's the simplest route for me to take to convert my GX coupe's rear drums to disc brakes? I've read several of the articles on brakes, and it seems each guy tries his own thing and sticks to it. So I was just wondering if there's a tried and trusted way of going about this without it being more work than its worth. My father suggested getting the front discs adapted to the rear.

Many Thanks

Hey Guys,
I bought my '73 GX Coupe (A15, Original 4-speed Gearbox, Original Diff) about a year ago with a lot of vibration and whining down the driveline. The first thing I was advized to do was squeeze about half a cup of copper compound grease into the diff with ATF and the 85W gear oil. The gearbox just got ATF. Its been a year and the vibration has quieted down quite a bit.

I'm thinking of replacing the diff and gearbox oil this afternoon and I was wondering if anyone had advice or hints on the type of oil I should use. Maybe some mixes that work better? In example, a friend of mine mixes a third of his diff oil with another type of oil into his GTX's diff. I just can't remember what it was. =/

I live in South Africa, I do just as much highway driving as I do bumper-to-bumper driving, and the the drivetrain's (original) been hammered by an A15 for 10 years.

Any advice or hints would be appreciated.

Thanks Guys.
I think I'm getting the hold of how it works. I'm having the manifolds sandblasted and powder coated today, so when the get back, I'll take one last look before I have anything new cut.

Thanks Again

Apologies, this is my first Datsun restoration. So I'm not completely competent. Having said that, how do those guard the fuel lines? Mine just rain straight from the steel line next to the rocker cover.

The other picture...

Attach file:

---

  IMG02216-20130807-1043.jpg (20.17 KB)

That's the one. Thanks a stack! I notice mine doesn't have those 2 fingers standing up on the upper corners. It seems someone bent them and cut them off. what are they for?

Also seems like the gap in the middle was cut deeper towards the bottom...skew too.

Attach file:

---

  IMG02215-20130807-1042.jpg (19.56 KB)

Hey Gentlemen,

Does anyone have 2 or 3 good pictures of the heat shield behind the carbs? I'm having one lazer-cut out of 2mm stainless steel. Mine literally tore and it seems as if someone punished it with a grinder.

I've searched quite a bit, so my keywording must be off. I just need a shove in the right direction please.

Thanks for your time.

So we strapped the Nissan 1400 4-1 Powerflow branch on the engine while on the bench and it ran beautifully! It felt really foot-loose. Ran through the RPM range.

All this convinced me to get one for my A15 in my own little GX. But I don't drive my GX like my brother drives his buggy. He literally drives it 'til it's gremlins get out. What I mean is he sticks to the higher RPM end. While ravaging the farm. I drive a little bit differently due to a lot of bad road and traffic.

- So I assumed a 4-2-1 makes more sense? I mean the original manifold was designed like that.
- Also, I was curious if those 100cc's would make a difference. I bored it to 77mm to be safe when I serviced the sub-assembly, but I mean, if I'm going to spend the money, shouldn't I be looking for an A15's Branch?
- Lastly, what size should I go for? I currently have a 57mm from where the 2 pipes after the original flange join.

Thanks a Stack. Just needed the confirmation
Enjoy the Weekend =D

Good Morning from here in SA guys.

I won a voucher for an aftermarket branch manifold and I was thinking of using it for our buggy's A15 (H89 head), but for the life of me I can't think of a single car made here in SA that was produced with an A15. What do I tell the vague face at the dealer? I've tried explaining A15, but their database (or the secretary) only understands car models.
Wouldn't it be the same as for A14 from a Nissan 1400 Bakkie?