hello, i put L16 valve in my h10 head 38\33. I've checked the inlet valve to cylinder wall clearance and its good. the exhaust needs opening though(about 1.5 mm wider).

now i also have a .423" lift cam i was trying to figure out if this could clear with stock dish .040" over pistons, to do so i need to find out what the stock piston to valve clearance is, dose anybody know? also how far dose the exhaust valve protrude into the block deck so i know what depth to cut out of the stock valve reliefs?

looking at the slot in the cap and rod for the piston it seems like they will never line up i the picture the cap is flipped over. if you image it being flipped over to put it on the slot will be on the same side side but they will not line up.

thanks will do. also i noticed that the mains caps had the bearing notch lined up and together and the rod cap ones did not line up. could this contribute?

so i am doing my first engine rebuild on my a12 i have everything in new bearings, arp studs, polished crank, and i have the mains torqued to 38f/lbs and the rods to 26f/lbs when i turn the crank its easy turn when the rods are vertical, but when the rod journals are horizontal it gets a little tight and i hear a slight sound. anyone know that it could be?

when putting together my short block i forgot to put on #14 in the picture. is it needed? should i take off my timing cover and put it on?

you willing to post to CA,usa?

not true i dont think i just bout headers for a triumph form Michigan and it only cost me 13$ with usps ground. i was going to cut and weld them to my 1200 but then this came up...

so then the L20 stud kit has 3 longer studs? how can the the bolts be the same and the studs not?

no point in bumping IM BUYING THIS as soon as he is online lol

where are you located? if shipping wont kill me i'll take it