I encountered similar symptoms three times where it was blocked exhaust. Twice it was the heat riser valve in the manifold, another time it was a partially crushed exhaust pipe.

How would fuel problems cause the tachometer needle to jump around? Isn't the needle controlled solely by the points/current flow through the coil?

Quote:I would think not with a 3/4 race cam, which is old 1960s technology. To get 100hp/liter wouldn't you need a full race cam, or a modern camshaft (high lift, fast opening)?

Looks like the car was damaged, the top was probably smashed down (maybe from one of the numerous Norway fir trees falling on it?). So nothing wrong with cutting the top.

Still, sad to see a 2-dr sedan like this.

That's why it keeps breaking -- it doesn't have the rubber part. Without that the mount needs to be magnitudes of order stronger.

Get the stock transmission mount from a B310, then create a flat-plate crossmember to bolt it up. As a bonus it won't transmit vibrations into the car either.

Quote:Nope. Jetting only changes the air-fuel ratio, but won't solve poor velocity and mixture problems caused by too big of carburetor.

45 is the size of the throttle bores. More importantly is the size of the venturis inside. The 45 can be obtained with various size venturis, the largest would probably be too big for an A15, the smallest just right. It's just a guess though, the Weber book by Haynes has charts and graphs for sizing.

Quote:Well there is a time schedule for replacing it, but I don't bother anymore after having seen cars go for 30 years on the original oil.

Thinking about this some more, perhaps you could say that the stock B110 clutch pedal is "way too light". The one in the B310 is probably 4 times harder to push, but still feels easy ... gotta love the hydraulic clutch system.

Quote:I think of "low end" as 1000-2500 rpm ... which a Datsun 1200 spends no time in on the freeway. So maybe getting a cam strongest in the mid-ranges (2500-4500 rpm) would be the best?

Look for circlips on the inside of the four bearings -- if those are present, they can be removed and the ujoints pressed out.

The one in my garage now won't come out in the vise (even after removing the circlips) ... too rusty I guess.

Somethings wrong -- and it's not the grade of the bolt. The angle of the transmission may be incorrect. Make sure the transmission is sitting level, and not up or down a little in the back (which will create vibrations).