That should be much better than what my 32/36 has. It ran fairly well on the A12 and A15, except for off-idle performance. I think it is too rich.

Main jets: 132-partially blocked with very thin wire/135
Air bleeds: 150/180
Side jets/bleeds: 90/80 (80 has two holes-one side I blocked with wire)

Sounds very exciting! Any chance you could post a photo of the two B110s before you start (for a before and after look)?

How did you arrange for buying and shipping? Do you know someone in Portugal?

Sunny, there was a big discussion about similar topic -- whether the L-series 5-speed will fit a A-series front-case: 5 speed hybrid??

Also note that there is a 60a and 60L transmission.

The B-210 photo is a one-page advertisement.

When it says "like an overdrive", it's probably because of american confusion about overdrive ... american cars of the 60s and 70s didn't have them generally speaking. People were only familiar with the separate overdrive box bolted to the transmission or differential.

In any case, those cars are definitely overdrive 5-speed, it is the 60-series transmission (60L rather than 60A I think). That's also how they got 50mpg, which is better than 2004 us models. The B-210s had 3.7 or 3.9 diffs.

dvspath on eBay is always selling 1200 parts (he's out of Sacramento, CA).

Do you need coupe or sedan taillights?

Yes, some B210s and B310s have a rectangular pad, which is nearly the same but larger. I would think this is the easiest swap (caliper & pad swap).

Coronaboy, there was one a couple of days ago on eBay Australia, but is now gone. So keep looking there. Shipping is not prohibitive (check Australia Post for an estimate).

Thanks, B120dat. I hadn't thought about the coil possibly being bad.

anb008, it's very rare that a cap needs replacing. 90% of the time they just need cleaning. After you clean the cap, inspect it for black carbon "tracks" (burn marks) between any two terminals (inside or out). Replace it if it has these.

The coil is different, it's hard to tell if it's bad by looking at it. You can measure resistance, but you'll need specs. The best thing to do (to not waste money) is to borrow one of another car, even a Ford or GM coil will work fine if it is the same type (pre-electronic, and uses the ballast resistor). If that clears up the problem, then by all means by a new coil.

Hmmm ... I'm getty very bad fuel economy as well. And lastly, #4 spark plug terminal in the cap is oxidized (indicating #4 has been missing). The funny thing it that it runs great when warmed up.

I've got an electronic ignition coil and distributor. I'm going to put that on and see how it works.

My A12 has been running very poorly when cold. But when it fully warms up it runs perfect. It idles just fine, but at part throttle it misses and sputters. I find myself driving pedal down, pedal up. Heavy throttle runs fine, but anywhere in between is bad.

A few days ago on the way to work it was so bad I had to pull over, and looked in the engine compartment. There was moisture dripping everywhere (though it was a sunny day, it is winter in Seattle). I noticed that the distributor cap had a film of road grime on it. I wiped it off with some paper towels, and it instantly ran better and I was able to make it to work.

However, even after cleaning it, it still runs not so great when cold. I've checked the timing and dwell and they are spot on. I think this is the 'ole distributor cap moisture problem.

Here's a suggestion for anyone experiencing poor running: clean the distributor cap with dish soap and water, inside and out. Scrub any grime off of it (inside and out). Then let it thoroughly dry. It makes a big difference when the weather is damp.