Hi Ade,
If you are talking about installing the diff head into the housing use RTV ( silicon ) instead of a gasket - it works fine.Just make sure that both surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned and that there is no residue oil lying in the housing that could spew out when the head goes in.
Cheers
Dave

One for the Aussies here, can anyone help with some info or contacts for performance parts for the Nissan CA18 (non turbo ) please.By this I mean camshafts,pistons, multi throttle body injection units etc
Thanks in advance.
Dave

Yes, thats correct. Its my understanding that only a minor mod is required and Honda electrics are as good as you get.

Nick,
A14Force is right on the money. In fact he is reinventing the wheel as supercharging both Holden and Falcon 6's back in the 60's and 70's was a common option.
The problem is as you explain cavitation and really you need to get your max. power under 5000 and run either a coarser blade or a smaller nozzel.
The supercharging option on a jet boat has always intrigued me and I firmly believe that a very good setup would be an RS Legacy Turbo engine with the Turbo biffed and the supercharger off an 2 litre Toyota Celica put on instead- aq strong factory built engine with NO lag, nice and light and able to be mounted low in the boat.....
However I digress. An MR2 suoercharger drawing through an1 3/4'' SU ( off any old BMC 1800/1750 with the needle pruned accordingly will work just fine and give you exactly what you are looking for.
Good luck.
Any questions give me a yell.
Dave

Tsillay,
I have read this post with great interest.I must get into gear and put some electronic ignition in the SSS.The accepted norm as I understand it is a Honda Civic EN1 Distributor.
What I'm trying to ascertain though is on a high compression engine that has no apparent problems with points, good quality leads and new dist. cap, condensor, coil just what sort of a difference could one reasonably expect?
You mention distributors having a ton a scatter- can you elaborate a bit futher here please?
Further to that what was the hot set up on the Shellsport cars and the later evolutions of these ?
Also the previous owner of Kelford Cams down here is pushing a very fancy plug lead called Nology Hotwires. Supposedly they work similar to a capacitor discharge ignition and after having them demoed they certainly wack out a MONSTEROUS spark. Unfortunatley they come at a monsterous price - around NZ $300 for a set for a 4 cylinder. Anybody had any experience with these or seen them used on the likes of a V8 Supercar or something serious?
Cheers
Dave

Neil,
Re the manifold gasket, all that I have ever used and never had a problem with is Locktite 'Master Gasket' on the inlets and high temperature rtv ( silicon) on the exhaust.Assuming that both your head and manifold surfaces are true this is a very good, cost effective way to go.
It also pays to run your finger around the inner edge of the manifold to stop the sealant spreading into the port once the head and manifold surfaces are pulled together.
The mechaniic who put me onto this ( a very accomplished rally car builder and driver) was adamnmant that when a gasket goes your are out of the event whereas if either of these sealants were to leak its only ever a tiny leak and never enough to force you out.
Now I'm sure that some of the troops will dissagree with this but it has worked without fail for me on both the supercharged and turboed A14 and the SSS for the last 15 odd years.
Hope that this helps
Cheers
Dave

Bart,
Where abouts in Chch are you?
I'd love to have a look at your setup and may be able to help you abit having been there and had one myself.
To answer some of the questions raised there are 3 issues that you MUST address when going down the forced induction route;
1) Do not underfuel
2) Do not overspark
3) Do not overboost
The standard pistons are safe and reliable to 12 lbs IF everything else is okay.
My strong recomendation would be to o ring the block ( especially if its apart ) and use chrome moly top compression rings.
The SU carb is great ( and very cheap ) for your intended use.
I'll dig out some pics of the best sort of inlet manifold to fabricate for you.
Cheers.

The boys are on to it.
The exhaust of a A15 with a 'j' made out of plumers steam pipe bends works very well and does'nt require any bracing as it is inherently very strong, similar to what 1200 rc has posted, a bit shorter. All flanges can then be profile cut from a decent thickness plate steel and mig welded to the steam pipe.

MK 2 Escort Sport are very close.
Some years ago I ran one on my rally car.

Yes Blowen 1400,I have.
I used an ols roots blower that was a cabin pressuriser off a WW2 bomber, drawing through an 1 3/4'' SU. The thing was overdriven to buggary bought still produced 8lbs boost.
They go very well don't they.The windmill brigade don't know what they are missing out on as a very cheap and simple, low cost alternative.
Cheers
B110sss