I thought mine was ok but there was a little damp spot on the concrete and my tank was empty. Then my favorite parts store manager said he no longer sold the regulator I used as he had many of them returned because of leaking. Then I started looking for a cause.

The use of ethyl alcohol in fuel requires different thread sealants used because many common sealants are commonly diluted with alcohol.

In fact one gasketing compound has instructions to use rubbing alcohol to remove it. Permatex thread sealant lists ethyl alcohol as a main ingredient. That does not build my confidence in it.

I have used Locktite Hydraulic Thead Sealant with excellent results but as its price has doubled I'm looking for a cheaper alternative.

I thought I'd found it in teflon tape, but although the tape is inert, tiny threads of it get into the fuel causing problems.

There is one called Gasola which comes in different grades, some of which resist alcohol and gasoline.

Hylomar is both gasoline and alcohol resistant but it does not resist pressure. I have seen it come squirting out of oil line fittings once they warmed up. Then the oil came squirting out.

Excellent point about the fire extinguishers. I had a fuel line fire in a van.

And yes, the standard pump is good with a stock camshaft. I should have stayed with the Datsun cam.

I am using 2 facet pumps and a cylindrical one on 3 cars, just checked Facet make 33 different pumps ...the store only had 2 types. There is a screw that one can dig down to on them, I think it controlls pressure and is adjusted at the factory.

I can take photos of the regulators...they are the two most common kinds in the usa.

I've used sandblasting to rough up the surface of the chrome for painting. It is probably better to use a commercial sandblaster for this as those for home use are quite slow.

Its better yet to strip the chrome off.

I have always used Honda jets in that Hitachi carb. They cost less and are more easily found.

fuel pressure regulator problems:

My gas tank was usually empty and there was a damp spot on the floor. Then I was told that all of the little round regulators slowly leak gasoline. Aside from that, they work very well.

If the pressure regulator is moved to a loop in the fuel line above the fuel tank, fuel can not leak while the pump is off.

This does not solve leaks while the electric pump is on.

The basic problem is that the Chinese seem to be making regulators which do not withstand 10% ethanol in the gasoline.

So if anyone has a soluton to pressure regulator leaks, please let me know. The stock fuel pump can't be used after you change the cam on older 1200 engines as the fuel pump lobe for them is at the front but thre newer engines hav it toward the center of the cam.

running the distributor with a drill on a stand reduces making a distributor curve to a one-man-job you set the desired speed on the drill and record the angle on the degree wheel. the timing light is on all of the time I used the car's tachometer but a tach could easily be part of your test stand. It is necessary in any case.

components:
distributor
tachometer
vacuum guage
vacuum pump
timing light
degree wheel
drill
and a stand to hold it all

I made a wooden bracket to hold the distributor and ran the distributor with a drill that would run up to 3600 rpm attached a degree wheel to the distributor shaft and the timing light is also held by the bracket. A hand operated vacuum pump takes care of vacuum advance curves.

I retain "idiot lights" as they are the only thing the driver can notice while busy. To that end, I use big bright ones, common clearance lights are good as they are easy to see and can be written on so you can't miss knowing what just failed. More recently I have found that illuminated game switches are better looking and almost as easy to see. ( one just tosses the microswitch away).

I destroyed two engines that had no lights. there is not time to peer down at a gauge while running hard so I place lights at the top of the dash near the driver's line of sight.

As to "t " fittings, I use them as they are so convenient and I like having lights along with gauges.
thinks for the warning about them splitting, (guess what I'm going to check tomorrow)..

Some machining and everything can be made to fit. standard industrial parts can be bought and made to fit if you are industrious.
Don't they fly off more easily than v belts? I had a v belt fly off and the resulting overheating destroyed my motor. They'd not slip if that matters.

If you want somthing strange, you could try the v belts made up of a series of loops. They look quite odd "loopy" one might say. I've no idea of how good they are. Leavwe your fan blades on so there is something(wind)in reserve to turn the water pump if the belt fails.