I've removed the step before for tire clearence on a 2 door. If there is space behind the "bump" (there is on the 2 door) just take a ball pean hammer and start at the rear end of the bump where it is small. With lots of hammering and some finnesse you can invert the raised area and gain quite a bit of tire room. Just takes time and makes lots of noise.

I'm running 250# Eibach springs in a Ground Control coil-over setup. Still have the factory rubber mounted strut bearings. KYB GR2 Zed shocks.

Ride if quite firm but not harsh. The 250# springs on the front match the factory leafs in the rear nicely.

The hoses from the later cars should fit. In fact, a lot of the brake hoses from cars with a solid rear axel will work also.

When I put the 60 series 5 speed in the formerly auto 1200, the B310 hose was too short to reach the clutch slave. I used the rear brake hose from an early 510 wagon.

Sounds like a trip to U-Pull-It is in order.

Universal joints work fine if both shafts are parallel. In this case the output of the transmission will not be parallel to the input of the differential. I don't know how much misalignment you can have before you start to get driveline vibration.

Yes, the 40mm valves are on the large size. Whoever did the work on the head put in large seats and valves, opened up the valve pockets, but did not open up the ports to match. I'm planning on opening up the ports and intake manifold just enough to match up with the Datsun comp manifold gasket. Maybe slightly larger than the GX head but not nearly as crazy as some of the race heads I've seen here and at Dan Hall's shop.

I'm in the process of building up an A15 motor for the street/autocross car. The head is an A14 oval port with 40mm intake, 33mm exhaust valves. Carbs are dual 40DCOE Webers using 30mm chokes for the first tuning go around. Cam has not been chosen yet.

The thought I had today is what about offsetting the engine to the right a couple of inches? The car is a LHD model so space is very cramped on the carb side of the engine bay. As far as I can see, this would do 2 positive things- Creates more space for the carbs and aircleaner setup and would help balance the car weight wise (helping to offset my 190# on the left side of the car).

As the sedan was an automatic model there is plenty of room in the transmission tunnel to swing the front of the engine to the right leaving the output shaft of the transmission centered.

As I have to have a drive line fabricated to fit the 63A dogleg 5 speed tranny in the car, it would not be too much more to have the front of the drive line setup with a CV joint to deal with the angle caused by the engine being offset.

After a quick look at the engine compartment it looks like the only change to the engine would be to use a short oil filter to clear the front antisway bar.

Thoughts?

Hmm...

Are the ports on the intake manifold round or oval? I've never seen a dual SU manifold for round port 1200 heads.

Another option would be use a 1200 head to match your manifold (assuming round port) and doing a mild porting job to clean up the head and manifold. Would not give as much peak horsepower as a larger port engine but should have a broad power band and be nice to drive.

I know exactly where your shop is... I used to go to "Gary's" right after he opened up the shop back in the late '70's. My parents still live close to there. I'll stop by after you guys get settled in.

Gary

I stuck this in Off Topic because I was driving my Subaru Legacy, not the Datto.

Last weekend ASNW (Autosports Northwest) put on their winter series rallycross events #5 & #6 at Deer Park airport near Spokane Washington.

Basically the event is an autocross run on a snow covered airport. Scoring was done rallycross style where you pitch your worst time then add up the remaining 3 times.

The 2 day event has to rate as one of the most fun race weekends I've had so far. My car was hopelessly slow but great fun to drive. Most of the folks there had either all season tires or dedicated snow tires. I was running on my Yokahama ES100 summer tires. Not much grip in the snow but lots of fun!

Here is a link to Google where I uploaded some video we shot. There are more videos, just search on "RallyCross ASNW #6" to find the other videos. They proabably won't show up in the search for a few hours...

My 4th timed run on Sunday:


Snow rallycross

Gary

My general thoughts on this...

Use the A-15 block and an A-14 head for a nice street motor. If you have the dual SU setup allready, use them.

The A-15 heads are not very good. Half the intake port is closed off trying to make a swirl port. Don't breathe worth a crap at the higher end of the rev range...

Are your SU's the early round top type or the later models. the early carbs cold start enrichment is by moving the jet seat down. The later carbs have a choke plate in front of the carbs.

On the 2 A-15 street motors I built many years ago the cams were 260 duration, 420 lift. Good midrange torque and very nice on the street.

With the remote mount brake reservoirs you will have room for air cleaners, but it will take some futzing around to come up with something that works.

Hope this helps

Gary

P.S. Where is your shop? I'd like to come take a look...

40mm or 45mm?

I have a 45mm Tomei dual side draguht manifold with linkage that uses the single stud between the ports...

Gary

Here is what is going on with the links...

Ok, the properties of the photo will look like this. This is an active link that requires the forum website to lookup the image in the database.

{img]http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=11091&full=1[/img}

I struggled with this issue for too long then got the hang of it. What I do is change the section:

/photo.php?lid=11091&full=1

to

/photos/11091.jpg (or .gif depending on the photo you uploaded).

This changes the link to hard link that requires no "thought" by the forum website to dislpay.

{img]http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photos/11091.jpg[img}

I stuck curly braces on the lines so the webpage won't resolve the commands.

Here is a link with the square braces put back in place...




Great work on the SC!
Gary