On the US AT models the hole for the clutch master is there but is covered up with a sheet metal cover that is spot welded in place. Takes a cold chisel, hammer, and some patience to uncover. The mounting studs need to be sourced as they are missing.

I used bolts to hold in my clutch master but it takes either 2 people or really long arms to install the clutch master...

Gary

Drifting as a sport may be fun but it has really started to screw up things for autocross. At least in the US. Damm lawyers and insurance clowns!

Because of some "accidents" during poorly run or illegal drifting events we are now treated to the anti drifting warning at every autocross we attend, whether it is a local club event or run by the SCCA.

I started in autocross in 1980 and spent 2 years running the SCCA rally divisional series in '85 and '86. Really had fun learning the proper rally driving technique! Rally has to be the most fun you can have in a car... Now, if it did not cost so darn much...

Back to autocross... At an SCCA event last summer I was still sorting out the car, having added a rear anti-swaybar but not having got things dialed in quite right, got into a 180 degree sweeper a bit hot. Did what came naturally and rallyed around the corner in a nice 4 wheel drift. I got a "drift warning" from one of the pit stewards...

Just kind of P's me off that now we have to be "politically correct" in how we drive during races.

Sorry about the rant...

Oh, here is the only photo of my dato in a drift... Was wet which kind of helped the sideways equation...

Gary

Hi dattoman_1000,

What model MoTeC ECU is that? I'm trying to find out some info about the control system and how it all works.

Not sure if this would work out for me as it would have to be civilised enough to be street driven. Would be darn nice if it could as I'm in the process of building a semi radical A15 for street/autocross use.

Yep, mark me down as wanting to order one from the next batch too.

Gary

This could be fun...
Craigs list Portland OR.

Yep, sounds familiar to me, having put the head gasket on upside down myself...

My only worry is Blowfly said the coolant was comming out the back of the head. When the gasket is put on upside down, the leak is on the side towards the rear under the intake manifold.

Gary

With the auto you have to be carefull to get the torque converter properly engaged in the oil pump before tightening the bellhousing bolts.

IIRC there are 2 splined shafts that go into the torque converter. On the outside of the torque converter there area set of 2 flats that engage the torque converter oil pump.

If the torque converter was not engaged in the oil pump you may have munched the oil pump and possibly jammed the input shaft. Most likely a terminal condition.

Gary

I have one that is was working as good as can be expected for an auto... unfortunatly I think the shipping would be a bit much...

Gary

What class/setup are you running?

The only time locked diffs are fast is when you have huge amounts of power. With lower power setups the open diff is the winner.

Locked diffs also give your car a Jekel and Hyde personality. At lower cornering forces the car understeers like crazy. As the cornering force increases you reach a point when the weight transfer causes the inside wheel to loose most of it's grip. At this point the car switches to oversteer. Basically your car will understeer or oversteer.

Locked diffs are lots of fun but can be slower with a lower power car.

One mod I did years ago (and just receintly too) is to shorten the radius rods and pull the front wheels forward. 3 things are gained with this mod. 2 big gains and a small gain...

Big gains-
1. Wheels forward shifts weight to the rear.
2. Pulling wheels forward increases the castor (think dynamic camber).

The increased camber from the castor during turns will increase the grip of the front. This allows you to reduce the roll stiffness of the rear suspension or increase the front roll stiffness of the suspension tuning. Either one will help keep more load on the inside rear wheel helping the wheel spin issue.

Small gain-
Increasing the angle of the strut away from vertical increases the rotational antidive of the front suspensioin which can help breaking a bit.

I've had issues with this in the past with the stock carby. The most successfull cure I've found is to lean out the idle mixture.

With the idle leaned out the only time my 1200 runs on is when the choke is still slightly engaged after a short drive. As soon as the choke fully opens the run on doesn't occur.