So, where is the car and stuff located? Starting with northern or southern hemisphere would be a nice start...

Sent another PM. I think I did it right this time...

Topgear, let me know how to send a deposit. I think I got a PM off to you last night... but I'm not sure I did it correctly...

I have one of the Nissan competition catalogs from somewhere in the '80s. The separate price list is from '84 but the catalog does not have a date that I can find. This catalog has everything printed on an angle to be "artsy"...

4 head part numbers-
11041-H2302 GX head to 6/73 A12
11041-H5703 GX head from 7/73 A12A, A13, A14, A15
9/6-H1165 A-series competition head for A12A, A13, A14, A15
9/6-H1167 A-series competition head for A12

Hi all, For those of you in the pacific north west of the US and western edge of Canada, NWAA (North West Auto sports Association) is putting on a 3 day practice/test and tune event on June 18th, 19th, and 20th. There will be 2 courses each day, one for morning and one for afternoon. Limit is 50 drivers. We have about 30 signed up so far.

Packwood Washington is one of the largest sites for autocross you will find anywhere...

If you can't make this one, we are having more practice/test and tune events at Packwood on the weekends of July 2-4 and August 27-29.

You won't find more seat time for the price anywhere!

NWAA Events schedule
MotorSportsReg for NWAA Packwood practice 1

Gary

The way I prefer to setup headlight relays goes like this...

I make a separate harness for the headlights and pick the control signals for the relays off one of the old headlight sockets. Makes it easy to move the harness to a different car later.

Pick the power to the relays off the output post of the alternator. From the relays the wires go to the headlights. The negative wire from each headlight returns to the alternator, using one of the case bolts as a terminal. Trigger the relays from one of the existing headlight sockets.

This makes for a compact clean install that provides maximum voltage to the headlights and does not rely on the body shell for the negative current return.

I go overkill and run #12 wire for all the main headlight wiring and use #16 wire for the relay triggering. All 3 cars, the 2 1200's and my daily driver Subaru are wired this way.

One great tweak that gets overlooked with the automatics is an adjustable vacuum modulator. Check with your local parts supply houses to see if they sell a replacement vacuum modulator that is adjustable. A lot of the replacements are adjustable so they can be used for different applications.

If you can't find an adjustable vacuum modulator you can make a new coupling rod that goes between the modulator and the load control valve in the tranny. When you unscrew the modulator from the transmission there will be a short rod that fits between the modulator and the load control valve. Make a new coupling rod out of a piece of wire coat hanger or equivalent. Start with the new coupling rod 1/8" longer and see if you like the results. The longer you make the rod the higher the shift points, within limits.

With an adjustable modulator you can change the up shift and down shift points. To make the transmission stay in lower gears longer or shift down sooner, you are making the transmission think the engine is working harder.

The last 1200 with an automatic I had was setup so that if you were crusing along at around 30mph in high, a light touch on the accelerator pedal would cause the tranny to drop to second.

Gary

My personal favorite wiper blade is the Bosh microedge. Been using them for years.

I'll add my vote to the "why bother" side of the camp. There is just not a need for power brakes in a car as light as the 1200. I personally like the "squeezing a brick" feel of well setup un-boosted brakes. Better feel and control when braking at the limit.

My old rally car had B310 front disks and rear disks off of what was sold as the 200SX in the US. No lack of braking or high pedal pressure here...

If you look at the torque converter used on the A series engines you will notice that there is a somewhat crude centrifugal cooling fan built into the transmission side of the converter. The cooling requirements are pretty low for a car as light as the B series.

Gary